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, frOTllEKI^CHAM
piCALS £ REVIEWS
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THE ALPINE GUIDE.
PART II.
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Information respecting the Central Alps, for ase in a ftitora edition, and contributions to the remaining part of this work, the Eastern Alps, will be thankfully received by the Editor. It is requested that they may be authenticated by the name and address of the writer, and directed to the care of Messrs. Longman & Co^, 39 Paternoster Row, London, E.C.
The Editor takes this opportunity for offering his thanks to numerous contributors from whom he has received valuable in- formation during the last three years, but to whom at the time be was unable to tender his acknowledgments.
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THE CENTEAL ALPS:
INCLtrDING THE BBRNE8B
OBEBLAND, AlfD ALL SWITZERLAND EXCEPTIKe
ZEUE KEIOHBOITBHOOD OF MONTE BOSA AND THE GREAT ST. BERNARD ;
WITH LOMBARDT, AND THE ADJOINING
PORTION OF TIROL.
BEING THE SECOND PART OF JCHE ALPINE QUIDS.
Br
JOHN BALL, F.E.S. M.R.LA. RL.S. &c.
XATK PRESIDBSn OT TBI ALPINK CLUB.
IsEW EDITION.
LONDON :
LONGMAKS, GREEN, AND CO.
1873.
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4^- )U''''ic ^i/^i^iy
LONDOK : PRIKTBD BY
SP0TTISWOOD8 AKD CO., NBW-8TRBBT SQUAB!
AMD PARLIAMENT STREET
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CONTENTS.
Anthorities oaoted ••••.xii
PreUminary Notes to the Central Alps • . xiii
Abbreyiatioiifl and Explanationi zx
CHAPTER VII. BERNESE ALPS.
Sbction 22. DIABLERETS DISTRICT.
Bte. A Paris to Ormond Dessos, by Neuch&tel and Laosanne • • • . 4
„ B. Ormond Dessus to Chftteaa d*Oex and Bulle 11
M C Ormond Dessus to Bex 12
„ D. Bex to Sion, by the Col de Cheville 13
„ E. Sion to Saanen 15
„ F. Saanen to Ormond Dessos 18
„ 6. Yevey to Thun, by Bolle and the Simmenthal 19
„ H. Chftteau d*Oex to Vevey, on foot or horseback 22
f, L Vevey to Fribourg and Berne ^3
„ K. Lausanne to Berne 24
„ L. Bnlle to Thun *26
Section 23.
GEMMI DISTRICT.
Bte. A Paris to the Baths of Leak, by Basle and Than — Ascent of the Doldenhorn
andAltels 28
n B. Thun to Kandersteg, by the Kien Thai— Ascent of the Blttmlis Alp . .41 „ C Kandersteg to Turtman, or Visp, by the LOtschen Pass .... 44
„ D. Baths of Lenk to Ferden or Kippel 46
M K. Thun to Sierre, by Adelboden, and the Strubeleck 47
M F. Thun to Sion, or Sierre, by the Rawyl Pass . . . . . .48
,, G. Kandereteg to Lauenen, bv Adelboden and An der Lenk . • • .51 M H. Baths of Leuk to An der Lenk— Ascent of the Wildstrubel . • . 52
SBcnoN 24. BERNESE OBERLAND.
Bte. A Than to Interlaken and Meyringen, or Reichenbach 58
,, B. Meyringen to Interlaken, by Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen ... 65
f, C. Meyringen to Brieg, by the Grimsel . . ' 77
10 D* Viesch to Brieg, by the ^ggischhom and Bell Alp— Ascent of the Fintter-
aarhom, Jungfrau, Aletschhorn . . . . . • . .84
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VI CONTENTS.
PAOB
Rte. E. Interlaken to Kandersteg d5
n F. Laaterbrunnen to Kandersteg 96
„ 6. Laoterbrannen to Toitman, by the Ldttichenthal— Asceot of the Bietach-
horn 101
„ H. Lauterbmnnen to the JCg^giftchhortt, by th6 Al^tsch Glacier . . . 103
„ I. Grindelwald to the ifiggischhom—Ascent of the Monch and Almerhom . 106
„ K. Grindelwald to the Gtimsel — Ascent of the Schreckhom . . . .113
„ L. Rosenlaui to Me^rringen, by the Urbachthal and Weitsiittel . . . 121
„ M. Meyringen to Grindelwald, by the Bergli Joch . . . . « .123
„ N. Meyringen to the Grimsel, by the Ganli Pass 124
f, 0. Grimsel to the ^gischhom— Ascent of the Oberaarhom . . . .125
„ P. Berne to Lucerne, by the Entlebuch . * 127
„ Q. Interlaken to B«rgdorf» by the Emraenthal . . • • . • •12$
Section 25. TITUS DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Brienc or Meyringen to Lucerne, by the Brttnig . . . . .130
„ B. Meyringen to'Stanestad, by the Melcbthal 132
„ C. Sarnen to Engelberg . * 134
M D. Meyringen to Engelberg^ Ascent of the Titiis 134
„ E. Meyringen to Wasen, by the Susten Pas;)— Ascent of the Sustenhom . 137
„ F. Mtthlesulden to the Gmnsel, by the Triftlimmi 139
„ G. Stein Alp to Guttannen, br the Steinltnomi and Furtwang Passes^Ascent
of the Steinhaashom and the Mfthrenhorn 142
M H. Geschenen hi the Valley of the Reuss to Meyringen, by the Geschenenthal . 148
CHAPTER Vin. ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND.
Sbction 26. FOREST CANTONS.
Rte. A. Cologne to Altdorf, by Basle, Olten, and Lucerne 147
„ B. Basle to Lucerne, by Zurich— The Rigi ...•••. 157
„ C. Lucerne to Schwys and Brunnen 168
„ D. Schi^z to Riohterschwyl, by Rothenthurm 171
„ E. Schwyz to Rapperschwyl, by Eiiisiedlen 172
M F. Stanzstad to Altdurf, by Eng^lberg and the Surenen Pass . • • .173
„ G. Stonz to Altdorf, by Isenthal . 175
M H. Stanz to Altdorf, by Beckenried and the Sontienberg 176
„ L AltdorftoStachelberg,by the Klausen Pass 177
„ K. Schwyi to Glarud, by the Pragel Pass~ Ascent of the Gl&rtliMli . .178
„ L. MuotU to Altdorf 181
M IC. Mttotta to SUchelberg, by the Biuthal 182
M N. Lachen to Schwyz or Gtarus> by the Waggi Thai 188
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C01SrtE3Stf$k vu
SRCTioir 27. THE TODI DISTRICT.
FAOB
Rte. A. Zurich toStachelberg^bTOIiriM^Asee&toftheTttdi . . . 186
,, B. Stachelbeix to Amsteg, by the Claiiden Grat 197
„ C. Basle to Dissentia, by Schaffhausen and Coire 202
^ D. Dissentisto Andermatt, by th« Oberalp Past — Sources of the Vorder Bh«in . 217
^ K. DisseutLs to Amsteg— Kreuzli Pass 219
„ F. Dissentis to Stachelberpf, by the Sand Grat— Ascent of the Stockgron . 220
M G. Ilanz, or Dissentis, to Stachelberg, by the Kislen Fas* .... 222
„ H. Ilanz to Elm, in the Semft Thai, by the Panixer Past . • . .223
„ 1. Reichenau to Elm, by the Segnes Pass 224
„ K. Glarus to Ragatz, by the Sernfthal and Sardona Olacier .... 225
n L. Glarus to Sargans, by the Semlthal «..,.... 228
„ M. Elm to Stachelberg, by the Bichetli Pass ....... 229
„ N. Reichenaa to Ragatz, by the KnakaU Pass ....... 229
SBcnoN28.
SENTIS DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Winterthur to Rorschach, by railwaj ........ 231
„ B. Uznach to St. Gall 233
H 0. Rorschach to Sargans and Coire, by railway . . . . . . 234
„ D. Rorschach to Trogen, Gais, AppenseU, and Weis^ad 235
„ E. St. Gall to AlsUldten 238
„ F. Weissbad to the Valley af the Rhine ........ 239
n G. Wyl to Sargans, by the Toggenburg ........ 240
„ H. Kesslau to St. Gall, by tJm«sch ......... 241
„ I. Kesslan to Weissbad 242
„ K. Kesslau to Wesen— Ascent of the Speer . 242
„ L. Wildhaus to Weissbad, by the Kray Alp ....... 243
„ M.Wildhansto Wallenstodt,by theChurfirstea ...... 244
CHAPTER IX. LEOPONTINE ALPS.
Section 29. FORMAZZA DISTRICT.
£t«. A. Obergestelen to Dome d'OssoIa, by the Gries Pass . . . . .247 „ B. Formazza (Andermatten) to Airolo, by the Passo di Saa Giaeomo . . 250 „ C. Yiesch to Formasca (Andermatten), by the Albrun Pass and Lebendu . 251
9 D. Yiesch to Premia, by the Binnenthal 253
M £. YieK^ to Isella, by the Hitter Pass . 254
M F. Isella to Premia, by the Yai Cherasca 256
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Tin CONTENTS.
Sbction 80.
ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT.
PAcne
Rte. A. Flaelen to Bellinzona, by the St Gothard Pass 259
r, B. Excursions from Amsteg—- Ascents of the Great and Little Windgelle and
the Bristenstock 269
„ G. Hofipenthal to Obergestelen, by the Furka Pass 271
„ D. Obergestelen to Airolo, by Uie Nnfenen Pass ...... 278
„ E. Airolo to Anderitiatt, by the Val Canaria ....••• 274
„ F. Dissentis to Bellinsona^ by the Lukmanier Pass ....•• 274
n G. Dissentis to Airolo^ by the Passo dell' Uomo ...••• 278
Sectioit 31.
ADULA DISTRICT. Rte. A. Coire to Bellinzona, by the Beraardino Pass— Via MaIa . . • .280
„ B. Hinterrhein to Val Blegno— Ascent of Pi« Yalrhdn 287
„ 0. San Bernardino to Roveredo, by Val Calanca 292
„ D. Trons to Olivone, by the Greina Pass 292
„ E. Ilanz to Olivone, by the Yrinthal .294
„ F. Ilanz to OliTone, by the Zavreila Thai - 298
„ G. Ilanz to Hinterrhein, by the Valserberg 800
„ H. Reichenaa to Splttgen, by Savien and the LOchliberg Pas9 . • • .801
Section 82.
LOCARNO DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Bellinzona to Arona, or Sesto Calende, by the Lago Maggiore • • . 804
,, B. Locarno to Faido, by Yal Yerzasca ..•..•••• 308
„ C. Locarno to Airolo, by Yal Lavizzara . 309
„ D. Locarno to Airolo, by Val Bavona . . . . . . • .811
„ E. Locarno to Andermatten in Yal Formazza 314
„ F. Locarno to Premia, bv Yal Rovana ....... .315
M G. Locarno to Domo d' Ossola, by Yal Onsemone 315
„ H. Locarno to Domo d* Ossola, by Yal Yigezzo 316
„ I. Canobbio to Domo d' Ossola, by Yal Canobbina 317
„ K. Pallanza, or Intra, to Domo d* Ossola, by Yal Intrasca . . . .317
Section 83.
COMO DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Coire to Como, by the Spltigen Pass 319
„ B. Colico to Milan, by Lecco 330
„ C. Bellinzona to Como, by Lugano 333
„ D. Campo Doldno to Mesocco 836
„ E. Chiavenna to Roveredo .......*.. 336
M F. Gravedona to Bellinzona • • . • 337
„ G. Luino to Menaggio, by Lugano . 337
„ H. Argegno to Osteno, by the Yal Intelvi— Ascent of the Monte Genftroao . 339
„ I. Laveno to Como, by Varese • . . . • 343
„ K. Bellaggio to Erba, by Val Assina -344
.• L. Como to Lecco, by Erba 345
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CONTENTS. CC
CHAPTER X.
RH^TIAN ALPS.
BECtlOK 34.
PR.ETT1GAU DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Bregenz to Landeck, by Feldkirch and the Arlberg Paw . . . 350
„ B. Bludenz to Landeck, by Montafun and the Paznaunthal • . . 852
„ C. Feldkirch to Maienfeld 854
„ D. Maienfeld to SUs, by the Pnettigau and the Vereina Pass . . ! 865
„ E. Glacier Passes from Klosters to Lavin, or Guarda— Ascent of Piz Linard 358
„ F. Passes from the Valley of the 111 to the Praettigau 860
„ G. Pattenen in Montafun to Guarda, by the Fermunt Pass .... 362
„ H. Passes from the Paznaunthal to the Ene:adine . . . 362
Section 36.
ALBULA DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Coireto Samaden;by the Jnlier Pass 365
„ B. Thusis to Tiefenkasten . .369
„ C. Coire to Samaden, by the Albdla Pass . . . . . . . 370
„ D. Lenz to Klosters, bv Davos 372
„ E. Coire to Davos am t*latz, by the Strela Pass 373
„ F. Davos am Platz to Stts, by the Fluela Pass 375
„ G. Davos am Platz to Scanfs, by the Scaletta Pass— Ascent of the Schwarz-
hom . 376
^ H. Davos am Platz to Scanfs, by the Sertig Pass ...... 378
„ I. Bivio to Casaccia, by the Septiraer Pass • 378
„ K. Andeer to Casac-da, by the Aversthal 379
„ L. Andeer to Chiavenna, by the Aversthal 382
„ M. Andeer to Campo Dolcino, by the AversthiU • . . . . .383
Section 86.
BERNINA DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Chiavenna to Nauders, by the Yal Bregaglia and Engadine • • . 885
„ B Samaden to Pontresina— Excursions from Pontresina 393
„ C. Bevers to St. Moritz, by Val Bever 398
„ D. Tour of the Bemina — Sella Pass 398
„ E. Colico to Bormio, by the Val Tellina 400
„ F. Morbegno to the Val Bregaglia* by Val Masino— Ascent of Monte della
Disgrazia 405
„ G. Casaccia to Sondrio, by the Muretto Pass 409
„ H. Pontresina to Chiesa' in Val Malenco, by the Captttschin and Scerscen
Passes 409
„ I. Chiesa to Poschiavo, by the Passo di Canciano 411
„ K. Samaden to Tirano, by the Bemina Pass 412
„ L. Pontresina to Bormio 415
„ H. Bormio to the Engadine, by Val Livigno . 417
Section 87.
ORTELER DISTRICT.
Bte. A. Bormio to Mais— Pass of the Stelvio — Ascent of the Orteler Spitze • * 421
w B. Bormio to Trento, by Val Furva and Val di Sole 425
n C. Santa Catarina to Latsch, by the Passo Cevedale . • • • • 430
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X CONTENTS.
PAOB
Rte. D. Glacier Passes from Santa Catarina to Prad 432
„ £. Laas to Sulden, by the Laaserthal ........ 484
„ F. Malfe to Trafoi, by the Suldenthal 436
„ G. Babbi to Meran, bv the Ultenthal 438
„ H. Mal^ to St. Pankraz in the Ultenthal 440
„ I. Cles to Meran or Botzen .......... 441
„ K. Bormio to Santa Maria 442
„ L. Zemetz to Mais, by the Ofen Pass and Yal Mastair . . . .444
„ M. Schuls to Mais, bv Yal Scaria 445
H N. Remtls to Mais, by Yal d*LJina 446
CHAPTER XI. LOMBARD ALPS.
Section 88. BERGAMASQUE YALLEYS.
Rte. A. Bergamo to Tirano, by Yal Seriana 449
„ B. Bergamo to Sondrio, by Yal Brembana 450
„ C. Bergamo to Morbegno, by the Passo di San Marco 451
„ D. Piazza to Morbegno, by Yal Stabina-^Piszo dei Tre Signori . . . 452
. H ^* Lecco to Bellano, by Val Sassina 453
„ F. Yarenna to Introbbio— Ascent of the Grigna 456
„ G. Morbegno to Bellano, by Yal Yarrone ........ 456
„ H. Introbbio to Colico— Ascent of the Monte Legnone ..... 467
Section 39.
YAL CAMONICA DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Malfe in Yal di Sole to Brescia, by the Tonale Pass and Yal Camonica . 459
„ B. Bergamo to Breno in Yal Camonica, by Lovere 461
„ C. Bergamo to Breno, by Clusone 462
„ D. Lovere to Edolo, by Val di Scalve 462
„ E. Edolo to Sondrio, by the Aprica Pass ^ 463
M F. Ponte di Legno to Santa CaUrina, by the Gavia Pass .... 463
„ G. Breno to Lodrone, by the Croce Domini Pass 466
„ H. Iseo to Gardone in Yal Trompia . 466
„ I. Brescia to Lodrone, by Yal Trompia 466
M K. Brescia to Yestone in' Yal Sabbia 467
Section 40.
ADAMELLO DISTRICT.
Rte. A. Mal^ to Salb on the Lake of Garda, by Yal Rendena and the Lake of Idro . 469
„ B. Plnzolo to Edolo, by Yal di Genova 474
„ C. Condino to Edolo, by Yal Daone .....,,, 473
„ D. Tione to Riva, on the Lake of Garda . . , . . . ,481
„ E. Lodrone to Riva, by Yal Ampola and the Lake of Ledro . . . .482
„ F. Pieve di Ledro to Tione • 484
„ G. Storo to Toscolano on the Lake of Garda, by Yal Vestino . . . 485
,, H. Pinzolo to Riva, by the Bocca di Brenta, and Molveno ' . • . 486
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
MAPS. Key M af ro Alpihie Guide, Part II. . To be patted inside 0»e awer ai the beginning
The Centbal Alfs — General Map To face HtU-page
Oberlakd Distbict To face page 54
Alps of Uri and some of the neighbonring Cantons • • • . f, 176 Alps or Glarus and part of the neighbouring Cantons ... „ 188
Bernina Alps • . • • n ^^
Orteler District m 41^
Central Alps— Geological ..•••••••• at end
PLATE. Pajiobama from tub Piz Laxouabo • • • • tofaofpage 394
WOODCUTS.
The Diablekets ••••«« page 10
Pavobama seen from the summit of the Gemmi Paai , « • • » d8
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zii
AUTHORITIES QUOTED. The quotations introduced in the following work are dis- tinguished by the initials corresponding to the subjoined list of authorities, and are chiefly taken from the MSB. notes communicated to the Editor,
W. G. A. W. G. Adams, Esq.
F. A. Signor Francesco Ambrosi. T. G. R Rev. T. G. Bonney.
W. B. William Brinton, Esq., M.D.
£. N. R Edward N. Baxton, Esq.
G. C. M. le Chanoine G. Carrel. G. C. C. G. C. Churchill, Esq.
J. J. C. J. J. Cowell. Esq.
R. W. F. R. W. E. Forster, Esq.
J. F. Mrs. Freshfield, authoress of * Alpine Byways/ &c
H. B. G. H. B. George, Esq.
W. E. H. W. E. Hall, Esq.
F. V. H. F. Vaughan Hawkins, Esq.
J. J. H. Rev. J. J. Hornby.
F. J. H. Rev. F. J. A. Hort.
J. G. H. J. Godfrey Humphry, Esq.
F. W. J. F. W. Jacomb, Esq.
J. R. K Rev. J. B. King.
R L. A Lady.
M. Murray's * Handbook for Switzerland, Savoy, and Piedmont*
W. M. William Mathews, jun., Esq.
A. M. Arthur Milman, Esq.
E. M. Herr Edmund von Mojsisovics. A. W. M. A. W. Moore, Esq.
R. C. N. R. C. Nichols, Esq.
A. A. R. A. Adams Reilly, Esq. C. H. P. Rev. C. H. Pilkington.
K S. Lt-Colonel Earl von Sonklar. J. S. Rev. John Sowerby.
L. S. Iieslie Stephen, Eiq.
F. F. T. F. Fox Tuckett, Esq.
B. S. W. R Spence Watson, Esq. A. W. Arthur P. Whately, Esq.
C. L. W. Rev. C. L. Wingfield.
S. W. Stephen Wiakworth, Esq.
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FREUMINAET NOTES
THE CENTEAL ALPS.
TO0B8 IM THE CeNTBAL AlP8.
The following sketches of tours in Switzerland, and the adjacent parts of Lombardy and Tyrol, ma3r be found useful to travellers. It is tfucen for ^^nted^ that additional time should be allowed for enjojing the more interesting spots. All classes of traTcllers naturally avail themselves of railways and steamers when these present themselves.
L Carriage Tour in Switzerland — 32 days' easy travelling, exclusive ef halts, and starting from Basle.
1. Zurich by rail.
9. To Laceme orer tbe Albli, or by Lake
of Zag and Kiissnacht. S. Escholsmatt, by tbe Entlebach.
4. Berne.
5. Railway to Fribourg and Vercj.
6. Bt Algle to Plan det Ilea.
7. ChAteaa d'Oez, by new road; thence to
Saanen.
8. Tbun, by the SimmenthaL
9. Interlaken. 10« 11. Excuriioni to Lauterbrunnen, and
Grindelwald. 12. Batht of Reichenbach, Tisitlng the Gieti-
bach on the way. IS. SUnsstad or Stans, by the Briinlg. 14, By Beckenried and lake steamer to Bnni>
nen, thence to Schwyi. lA. Excursion to Goldau and Morgarten. 1& Ytoit Oriitli, and proceed to Amstag by
Altdorf.
Airolo by St. Gothard Pais.
Bellinsona.
San Bernardino, by Val Metocco.
Spliigpn.
ChiaTenna, by SplUgen Pass,
u.
Pontresina, or Samaden. Excursion to Bemlna Pass. Excursion by char to Roseg Glacier. Molins, by Julier Pass. Coire, or by new road to Thusli when com. pleted. 37. Excursion to Via Mala, return to Reich*
enau. 28. Ragati, and excursion to Pflifers. 39. By rail to Wesen; carriage thenoe to
8tacbelberg. 80, 81, 33. Return to Basle by Zurich and SchaflThausen ; or go to Friedrichshafen on Lake of ConsUoce by rail to Ali- stadten ; road to Gais, Appensell, and St. Gall; rail thence to Rorschach.
Carriaffe Tour of 40 days, exclusive of halts, starting from Rorschach on the Lake of Constance, omitting the Bernese Oberland, and in* eluding the Italian Lakes.
ft.
Rail to RagaU ; excursion to Pfafers.
Rail to Coire ; carriage to Thusis.
By Via Mala to AplUgen, thence to San Bernardino.
By Val Mesocco to Bellinsona, and Lo- carno.
Excursion to Blgnasco, and return to Lo-
caruo. Lago Maggiore. Sleep at Pallansa,
Bareno, or Stresa. To Lugano by Luino. Bellaggio, by Porlesta^md ICenaggio* Jigitized by VjOO^s-
XIV
PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS.
9. Rxcurtion to Asm.
10. Como bjr iteamer; thence to Lecco bjr
Erba.
11. Morbegno, by Colico.
12. Excursion to Baths of Masino.
13. Edolo by Aprica Pass.
14. Lovere on Lake of Iseo.
15. Steamer to Samico or Iseo; thence to
Bretcta.
16. Said on Lake of Gard;^
17. Store in Italian Tyrol
18. Rtra, by Val dl Ledro.
19. Tlone. and Piniolo.
20. Trento, by Vessannu
21. 82. Excursion to Clet and Rabbi, return-
ing to San Micliei*.
83. Meran.
84. Trafoi.
Bormio, by Stelrio Pass.
Excursion to SU. Catarina.
Le Prese, by IMrano.
Pontresina, by Bemina Pass.
Excursion to Roiex Glacier.
Molins, by Julier Pass.
Coire.
Suchelberg, by Glarus.
Return to Glarus. Excursion to Klon*
thai. Rail to R^>perachwvl ; carriage to Schwys. Excursion t» Devil s Bridge, returning to
Anistig. Lucerne. Excursion to Samen, and return.
Zurich, by Lake of Zug. 40. Scbainiausen and Basle.
III. Tour of three months in the Central Alps, starting from Basle, for moderate pedestrians, and ladies able to ride, .^temative routes given in italics are practicable only on foot.
1,8. By Berne and Fribourg to Verey.
3. ChAteau d'Oex, by Col de Jaman.
4. Plan des lies, by Comballas.
5. Lauenen, by Gsteig.
6. An der Lenk.
7. Excursion to Sieben Brnnnen.
8. Tbun, by Zwetsimmea.
9. 10. Lauterbrunneo and Miirren, returning
to Lauterbrunnen. 11 . Excursion to Steinberg Alp, or to Sckmad-
Hhach Fall, IS. Wengern Alp.
13. Descent to Grindelwald; TisittheEismeer. M. A«cend Faulhom.
15. Reichenbach Hotel, by l^osenlaut.
16. Grimsel Hospice.
17. Excursion to Aar Glacier.
18. Rhone Glacier.
19. Aegglschhorn Hotel. 80, 81. Excursions thence. 88. Bell Alp Hotel, by Brieg, or by AUUek
Glacier. 23. Baths of Leuk. 84. Ascent of Torrenthom. 25. Kandersteg, by Geromi Pass.
36. Lucerne, by Brians and Briinig Pass* 27. Ascent of Rigi, by Kussnaeht or Guldau. 88. Descent to WeggU.
29. LAke of Lucerne. Sleep at the Sonnenberg.
30. Visit Grtitli, and go to Altdorf. 3L Stachelberg by Klausen Pass.
32. Excursion to Sand Alp.
33. Ragats, by Glarus j visit PfSferi. 84. Thusis. Excursion to Via Mala. 35. Tlefenkasten ; thence to St. MoriU, by
Julier Pass. 36,)
37. > Excursions from St. Morlta, or PonUesina. 3«».J
38. Le Prese, by BernUta Past. 40. S«BU Catarina.
IV,
65.n 56.J
Trafoi, by the Stelrio Pass.
Meran.
Cles, by Bots^, and San Michele.
Char to Diinaro. ride to Pinzolo (securing
mules beforehand). Excursion In Val di Genova. RiTa on Lake of Garda, by Tione. Store, by Val di Ledro. Brescia, by Vestone. LoTere, by Iseo. Bergamo, by Clusone. Leeco by rnll. Char to Introbbio. Ride to BelUno, or Varenna ; boat to Bel- laggio. 53, 54. Lake of Como.
' Lngano, by Menaggio (Monte Salratore) —or Monte Generoto^ and thence to Lu- gano. 67. ' PaUansa, or Baveno. Borromean Islands. 58. Locarno. £9. Excursion to Bignasco.
San Bernardino, by Val Mesocco.
Ilans by Hinterrhein and the Valserberg.— or by Spliigen and the LochUberg.
Dissentis.
OliTone, bv Lukmanier Pass. <>e. Faido, or Airolo.
67. Andermatt, by St. Gothard Pass.
68. Schwyi, by Altdorf.
!^*) Basle, by Zurich and 8oba1fhausen>-or 3 r Rorschach, by St. Gall and Appenaell.
Should the season be too far advanced for the higher valleys, it would be better to go from L/icamo, by Bellinsona, to Gravedona on t'le Lake of Como. Thence to Morbegno, making an excursion to the Baths of Masino. Thence to Chiavenna, and over the Spliigen Pass %n Goire. Basle or Rorschach may be reached thence by railway.
Pedestrian Tour of two months ii^ Swiss Alps, starting from Rorschach.
1. Wpissbad in Appenxell. I 4. Wesen, by tbe Speer.
«. A»cent of Sentls. 6. Glarus, by Obwalden, and the MUrtscheu
8. Nesslau in Toggenbuiy. | Alp.
64.
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6. 7. 8.
10. 11.
It,
13, 14 15, 16, 17. 18. U). 20. 21. 22. 29.
26.
as.
29.
Elm in S«nifthal.
SegnpR Past to Flimt. 9. ^^gen and Hiaterrhetn, tnr Savi«n Plat«.
Excursion to Bouree of the Rhine.
Ilanz, by Valserberg. i Scachelbprg br Kitten Pati ; thence to ( Amvtagby Klauten FasK— or by Sand r Past, and Clarideo Grat>.-or l^ Dit- ) tentit. and Kreuslf Pats. ) Reichenbach by Surenen Past and Bngel- > b3r«{. with Ascent of the Titlis^or by ) Sutten Pats, and Atcent of Suatenhom.
Faulhorn.
Interlaken, by Glestbach.
!Murren ; atcent of the Schilthom ; Wen- gern Alp ; Grindelwald.
Oiimsel Hospice by Strahleck, or by Fios-
teraar Jocn. Rhone Glacier. jCggischhorn Hotel. 27. Excursiont fk-om iBggitchhonk BeU Alp Hotel. Atcent of Sparrenhom.
iKanderstef by Baths of Leuk (atcent of the Torrenthorn),aud theOemmi Passx thence to Lauterbrunnen by Tschinicel Past-* or bv Kippel ; thence by the ' L5ttchen Pass to Kandersteg ; and to Lauterbrunnen by the DUoden Grat.
34. Frutigen.
35. An der Lenk, by Adelboden.
36. Atceatof WM^trubel.
37. 1 Sion, by Lauenen, and the Oelten Pats— or
38. i by Gstelg, and the Sanetsch Patt.
39. Orion, by the Col de Ch^Tdle.
40. Ascent of Grand Moveran, or Diablerets.
41. Plan des lies.
43. Ascent of Chamottalre.
43. Chateau d'Oex.
44. Vevey, by Col de Janian. 4d. By Mul^lon to Bulle.
46. Baths of Weisspnburg. by Val de Belle-
garde and Kins. 47, 7 Ascent of Stockhorn, or Nieten, and then 48.3 to Thun.
Relum to Enghind by Berne and Neu>
cbitel. or by Baale.
Pedestrian Tour of two months in the Orisons, Lombard/, and Western Tyrol. Travellers starting late can modify the arrangement of the tour, so as to give the hottest weather to the higher yalleys.
I. Rorschach to Maienfeld ; thence to Kiiblit,
or Klottert. 9. Davot am Platz.
3. Ascent of Welsailah.
4. Coire, by Strela Past.
(• Ascent of Statserhom, deieendiiig to Thusis.
6. Andeer.
7. Casaccia, Inr ATerttbal.
V, 9. Bathsof lifesino, by Bondo, or Caatateigna.
10. Return to Casaccia, by Zocca Pass.
11. St. Moriti ; thence to Poniresina by Acia,
or by Surhji Fuorcla.
13, 13. Excursions from Pontresina.
14, ) Poschiavo, or Le Prese, by Sella Pass, or lb. 5 CapOtschin Pkss, and by Canciano Past.
15, Santa Catarina.
17* I BxcurtioBt from Sta. Catarina, or Batht
18. 5 of Bormio.
19. Trafoi. Visit Drey Brunnen.
2Q. SaltinMartellthid.
21. To Pejo, or Rabbi by Glacier Past.
22. 23. Pinsolo, In Val Rendena. 24« 25. Excursiont from Pinsolo.
26. Rira, by Tione and Ballino.
27. Storo.
28. Bagotino.
29. Breno In Val Camonica, by Croce Domini
Pass.
30. Lovere, on Lake of Iseo.
31. Oastione bv Val di SoaFre.
32. Atcent of Monte Presolana.
33. Fiumenero, in Val Snriana.
34. Piaiza, or Olmo, in Val Brembana.
35. Ascend Pizzo dei Tre Signori, deitcend to
Mines of Valbonn, or to Introbbio. 3<i. Varenna, by Cainailo Pass. 37. Fremana, by Bellano. 88. Ascend Legnone ; descend tlience to Mor*
begno. *° Bellaggio, or Tremessa
41. Excursions about Lake of Como.
48. Monte Geaeroso. Lugano.
49. Visit Lago Maggiore, and go to Locarno. 'San Carlo in Val Kavona; thence to An-
dermatten in Val Formazza— or by Cevio
to Premia. Brieg, by Isella, Val Cherascn, and Kalt«
wasser Joch. or by Ritter Pass — or elue
by Val Devera, the Kriegalp Fktss, or
the Col delta Rossa. Return to England by Sion and the Lake
of Geneva.
Books aiht> Maps connscted with the Central Alps.
It appears convenient to give in this place a list of books especiaJiy connected with the districts included in the present voliuncy and also a list of maps. In regard to the latter it must be observed that the detailed maps of particular districts in Switzerland published before the afipearance of the Federal Map, produced under the direotion of General Dufour, have been completely supplanted by that admirable work. It is now complete, and the traveller who would quit beaten trades should provide himself with
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Xvl PRELIMINART NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS.
the sheets comprising the district that he intends to visit. A new edition of Keller*s general map of Switzerland, entitled ' Keller's zweite Reisekarte der Schweiz/ has been announced as this volume was going to press, but the Editor has not seen it.
The territory comprised in the present volume fell within three states when the existing Government maps were executed. A small portion only, including the valley of the Tosa, and the western shores of the hfkgo Mag- giore, is comprehended in the general maps of Piedmont published by the Stato Maggiore, or War Department-, at Turin. Those maps have justly been the object of severe criticbm, and fall much below the level of other similar modern works.
The general map of Venetian Lombardy, executed by the Austrian Government, is on the whole satisfactory. It is needless to say that the territory included in the map now forms a part of the kingdom of Italy. A tolerable reduction of that map, in four sheets, has been published by Artaria at Milan. The NW. sheet nearly comprises the portion of the country described in the present volume.
The Austrian map of Tyrol is inferior to that last spoken of, and a satisfactory map of that country on a scale suited to a mountaineer is still a desideratum. Mayr's general map of Tyrol and the adjoining territory is tolerably good ; and Scheda^s excellent map of the Austrian Empire gives every detail that is possible on the scale adopted in his work.
List of Books connected with the Central Alps.
Berg- und Gletscher-Fahrten in den Hochalpen der Schweiz, by G. Studer, M*
Ulrlch, and J. J. Weilemnann, 1 vol. Schalthess, Ziirich, 1859.
Second series, I vol. Schulthess, Ziirich, 1863.
Coaz (J.) — Ersteigung des Piz Valrbein. In Jahresbericht der Natorforschendea
Gesellschaft Graubiindens, 1857-8, Char, 1859. Das Hochgebirge von Grindelwald, by Pr. Aebi Ev. Fellenberg and Gerwer,
Coblenz, 1865. Ebel (J. G.)-— Voyage pittoresque dans le Canton des Grisons, &c., avec 32 Vues
et une Carte routi^re, par J. J. Meyer, 8vo. Ziirich, 1827. Engelbardt (C. M.)— Naturschilderongen aos den hochsten Schweizer-Alpen,
1 vol. with atlas, Basel, 1840. Freshfield (Mrs. H.)^A Summer Tour in the Grisons and Italian Valleys of the
Bemina, 1 vol Longmans, 1862. Heer und Blumer. Der Kanton Glaros, Ebendas, 1846 (mit der Gebirgskunde
von Arnold Escher). Hegetschweiler (J.) — Reisen in den Gebirgstock zwischen Glarus und Graubiin- .
den, 1819-20-22, 1 vol. Orell Fiissli, Ziirich, 1825. Hirzel-Escher. Wandenmgen in weniger besuchte Alpengegenden der Schweiz,
&c. 1 vol. Orell Fiissli, Ziirich, 1829. Haber (W.)— Les Glaciers. Paris, Challamel ain€, 1867. Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpenclubs. 4 vols. Bern, 1864 to 1867. Kasthofer. Bemerkungen auf einer Alpenreise liber den Sosten, Gotthard, Ber-
nardin, und Aarau, 1822. Latrobe (C. S.)— The Alpenstock ; or Sketches of Swiss Scenery and Manners,
1 voL 2nd edition, London, 1839. Jjebert (Prof. Dr. H.). — ^Das Engadin, seine Heilquellen, seine Natar, and seint
Bewohner, 1 vol. Kom, Breslau, 1861. Lechner (Ernst)— Piz Languard and die Bemina-Gruppe bei Pontresina, Oberen-
gadin, 1 vol. Engelmann, Leipzig, 1858.
PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS. ^Vll
Leonhardi (G.) — Das Poschiavino Thai, 1 vol. Engelmann, Leipzig, 1859.
Das Veltlin, 1 vol. Engelmann, Leipzig, 1859.
Der Comersee und seine Umgebungen, Engelmann, Leipzig.
Lory. Voyage pittoresque de i'Oberland Bernois, fol.,30 col. pl.,Didot, Par.s. 1822.
Lory (^i/.v)— Souvenirs de la Suisse, ou Recueil de Vues . . . pour faire suite au
Voyage pittoresque dans I'Oberland Bernois, 37 col. pi , fol. Neuchiitel, 1829
Meyer (J. R. & H ) — Reise auf den Jungfrau-Gletscher und Ersteigung seines
Gipfelsj im Augstmonat 1811 untemommen; aus den Miszellen fiir di«
neueste Weltkunde besonders abgedruckt.
Meyer (R)— Reise auf die Eisgebirge des Kantons Bern, und Ersteigung ihrer
hochsren Gipfel im Sommer 1812, Sauerla«der, Aarau, 1813. Papon (Dr. J ) — Engadin. Zeichnungen aus der Natur und dem Volksleben eines unbekannten Alpenlandes, 1 vol. Scheitlin und ZoUikofer, St Galien, 1857.
Payer (Lieut. J.; Durchforschung der Trafbier Alpen. In * Petermann'a
Mittheilungen,* X. 1866. Gotha, Perthes.
Die Ortler Alpen (Sulden-Gebiet und Monte Cevedale).
Jn * Petermann's Mittheilungen.* Erganzungsheft, No. 18. 1867. Gotha, Perthes. Rambert (E.)— L'^s Alpes suisses. 2**« s^rie. Lausanne et Paris, 1866. Roder una Tscharner. Der Kanton GraubUnden, historiscii, geographiscb,
statistisch geschildert, Ite Abtheilung, St. Galien, 1838. Rohrdorf. Reise iind Ersteigung der Jungfrau in August, 1828. Roth (A.)— Gletscherfahrten in den Bemer Alpen, 1 vol. Springer, Berlin, 1861.
Finsteraarhomfahrt, 1 vol.. Springer, Berlin, 1861.
und V. Fellenberg. Doldenhom und Woisse Frau, with 11 coloured
illustrations and a map, Baedeker, Coblenz, 1 863.
The same work in English, Baedeker, Coblenz, 1863.
Simler (Dr. R. T.) — Der Todi-Rusein, und die Excursion nach Oberland Alp,
with coloured illustrations and a contour map, Haller, Bern, 1863. Simond. Voyage en Suisse dans les annees 1817, 1818 et 1819, 2 vols. 8vo. Paris,
1824. Studer (Gottlieb) — Topographische Mittheilungen aus dem Alpengebirge, 1 vol.
and atlas, Huber & Co. Bern and St. Galien, 1843. Theobald (Prof. G.)— Das Biindner Oberland; oder Vorderrhein mit seineu Seitenthalem, 1 vol. Hitz, Chur, 1861.
Nflturbilder aus den Rhatischen Alpen. Ein Fiihrer durch
Graubiindten, 2nd edition, maps and illustrations, Hitz, Chur, 1862.
*Das Thai von Poschiavo' und 'Samnaun* in Jahres-
bericht der Naturforschenden Gesellschaft Graubiindens, 1857-8, Chur, 1859.
Cima da Flix und Piz Err, in same work, 1860-61.
Tscharner (P. C. von) — Wanderungen durch die Kbiitischeu Aipen, 2 vols.
Ziirich, 1829. Tschudi (Iwan)— Schweizerfuhrer, 1 vol. in 3 parts, St. Galien, 1865. Weilenraann (J. J.)— Ersteigung des Piz Linard im Unter-Engadin, 1 vol. Scheitlin & ZoUikofer, St. Galien, 1869.
List op Maps op the Central Alps.
Dufour (Genl.)— Topographischer Atlas der Schweiz. toMM» 25 Blatter.
Carte Topographique du Canton de Geneve, 25^oo» * ^^m ^<?nt»ve,
1837-38. ^ jg.^.^^^ ^y Google
Xviii PKELIMINARY NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS.
Giimbcl (C. W.) — Topographische Karte des Kantons Zurich, j^^^. 32 Bl.
Keller ( H.) — Zweyte Reisekarte der Scbweiz, Ziiricn.
Leutbold (H. F )— Reisekarte der Schweiz, Zurich.
Michaelis (E. H.) -Carta della Republica e Cantone del Ticino, ^jjj^, 1 Bl., 1 847
{Vshlagintweit (A. H.) — Karte der Monte Rosa und seinen Umgebuogen im Jubre
1861 ftntworfen, Weigel, I^ipzig, 1854 Studer (B.) u. Escher von der Lioth. Carte g^ologique de la Suisse, VTurster ft Cie., Winterihur, 1853.
(Gottlieb; — Karte der sudlichen Wallisthaler, x?)<^»
Weiss (J. H.)— Atlas Suisse, &c., Yrhus^ ^6 Blatter, Aarau, 1786-1802.
(V.)— Der Kanton Bern, jg^boo* ^ ^^'* ^™, 1830,2nd edition, 1854.
Wurster u. Cie. Karte des Kantous Graubiintden, 55^555, I BL, Wurster & Cie.,
Winterthur, 1862. Ziegler. Neue Ziegler'sche Karte der Schweiz, Wurster & Cie., Winterthur, 1857.
(J. M.) — Topographische Karte der Kantone St. Gallen und Appenzell,
5^, 16 BL, Winterthur u. Berlin, 1852-55.
. Karte des Cantons Glarus, 5ooC5» ^ 8^« ^^'* burster & Cie.,
Winterthur, 1862.
..-..-._ Ueber topographische Karten, mit 4 reducirten Karten Tom
Kanton Glarus, 4 BL, ^5gi>35, Wurster & Cie., Winter- thur, 1862.
— — — — Karte des Kantons Tessin, jg^J^j^, 1 BL, Wurster & Cie., Winterthur.
The reader is referred to the Intro<luction to this work for information respectint; books of a more <;eneral character, scientific and descriptive, con- nected with the chain of the Alpit.
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INTRODUCTION
ALPINE GUIDE.
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InroBMi-TiOH respecting any portion of the region described in the Alpiite Guide, with a view to the correction of errors or omissions, wiU be thankfully received by the Editor. It is requested that notes may be authenticated by the name and address of the writer, and directed to the care of Messrs. Lonomans & Co. 39 Paternoster Eow, London, E.G. i
LONDOX : PRINTED BT
■POTTWWOODa ASD CO.. XR\T-STBKRT SQUABS
AKD PARLLAMUXT STUBCT
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INTRODUCTION
TO
'THE ALPINE GUIDE.'
JOHN BALL, F.RS., M.E.I A., F.L.S., &c.
UlTS president of the IXPINB CLUB.
NEW EDITION.
LONDON : LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
1873.
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PREFACE.
A JUST DISTINCTION has been drawn between travellers who visit foreign countries with the object of gaining Mid com- municating knowledge, and tourists who go from place to place seeking amusement and change of scene, but without any more definite scope than to gratify a superficial cu- riosity. The line of distinction between these two classes, which was easily drawn twenty or thirty years ago, is nowa- days less definitely marked. The all but universal taste for travelling has spread at a time when increased knowledge and a more lively interest in physical science have become dififused throughout the educated classes in our own and other countries* Most men of cultivated minds occasionally seek relaxation in travelling, and a large proportion of tourists have sufficient knowledge to take an intelligent interest in some, or it may be in several, departments of science or art naturally con- nected with the country through which they pass.
These remarks especially apply to travellers in the Alps. The day is past when it could be thought necessary to apo- logise for or explain the prevalence of a love for mountain travelling. It is a simple fact that, especially in our own country, thousands of persons have learned to regard this as a sovereign medicine for mind and body, and to feel that the weeks or months devoted to it are the periods of life most full of true enjoyment, and those that leave the most abiding impressions. The fact that the scenery of the Alps is unsur- passed elsewhere in the world for the union of grandeur, beauty, and variety, and that it is accessible with a trifling expenditure of time and money, naturally accounts for the constantly increasing influx of strangers.
As high mountain countries, and the Alps in particular, abound with phenomena new and striking to Jtb© Intel'
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VI PREFACE.
ligent observer, there is a constant increase in the number of those who, without undertaking systematic research, are led to desire further information respecting the structure of the earth's surface, and the causes that have uplifted the mountain ranges, or the laws that regulate the circulation of heat and moisture, which maintain what may be called the inanimate life of our planet, or the animal and vegetable forms that exhibit in apparently inhospitable regions so rich a variety.
In addition to these objects of interest, there is a simpler branch of enquiry which especially recommends itself to many of our active and energetic countrymen. Many parts of the Alps are very difficult of access, and but a few years ago there were many considerable districts whose highest peaks had never been attained, which were not known to be traversed by practicable passes, and of which none but slight and im- perfect information was anywhere accessible. To explore these little-known districts, to scale the higher summits, and to discover passes that should connect valleys that are sepa- rated by lofty ranges, have been the pursuits of the members of the Alpine Club- Without exaggerating the importance of the work achieved, it is impossible to deny that a remarkable degree of enterprise and energy has been exhibited by many of the members of that association in accomplishing work which, if not actually scientific, is certainly conducive to the progress of science. They cannot indeed rival the men who, following the illus- trious example of Saussure, have explored the Alps with the definite object of enlarging the bounds of science ; but, in achieving the preparatory task of opening the way through many of the least accessible parts of the Alpine chain, they have undoubtedly surpassed the performances of all their pre- decessors. Their example has not been without influence in other countries, and the formation of kindred associations in Switzerland, Austria, and Italy has given additional impulse to the spirit of Alpine exploration and enquiry.
It has for some time been felt that the time had come for attempting to supply to Alpine travellers a guide-book dif- fering in many respects from those hitherto in /^se^jmd the
PREFACE. yil
writer has been urged, by some of those most capable of con- tributing to such a work, to undertake the task. He has no claim to a brilliant share in the adventurous performances of his friends and fellow-members of the Alpine Club ; his qua- lifications, such as they are, arise rather from a somewhat pro- longed and extensive acquaintance with the greater portion of the Alps, in the course of which he has crossed the main chain more than sixty times by forty different passes, besides traversing more than one hundred and seventy of the lateral passes.
This work differs from most, if not all, of its predecessors in its plan, which is designed to include the entire re- gion of the Alps. In regard to certain districts the avail- able information is incomplete, but the arrangement is such, that the omissions may be easily supplied hereafter. Besides the preliminary matter contained in the Introduction, a variety of notes and indications connected with geology and botany are scattered through the body of the work, with a view to direct and guide those who feel an interest in those subjects. Detailed notices of the vegetation would occupy too much space, and the botanical indications have for the most part been confined to pointing out localities for the rarest species, chiefly from the writer's personal observation. The artix^le in the Introduction on the Geology of the Alps, which, it is believed, will interest a numerous class of readers, is from the pen of M. Desor, the distinguished Swiss geologist. In trans- lating this essay, the writer has sought to render faithfully the views of M. Desor, which in the main coincide with those of M. Studer and other leading Swiss geologists ; but he may be permitted here to say, that on some points of theory his own opinions are not in accordance with those of the author. What is certain is, that an extensive field for investigation still remains for future enquiry, and it may be hoped that an essay which for the first time brings together in a connected way the results of past work, will tend to progress, by directinff attention to the points still requiring examination.
In the arrangement of this work it soon became clear that it would not conduce to the convenience of travellers, nor to a clear understanding of the topography o£ the Alpine chain,
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VIU PREFACE.
that the writer should be guided bj political boundaries. These, as verj recent experience has shown, are subject to change, and they rarely follow the natural divisions suggested by the physical features of the country. Of the three main divisions of the work, that which appears under the title ' Western Alps ' includes the entire range that encircles the plain of Piedmont, from the Maritime Alps north of Nice to the Pass of the Simplon, along with the Dauphin^ and Savoy Alps, and the portions of Switzerland connected with the Pennine range. This is the portion of the Alps in which the amount of new matter available through the activity of the members of the Alpine Club is most considerable, mainly because it includes the portions most difficult of access, and where, owing to the comparative neglect of their predecessors, most remained to be done. The volume devoted to the Cen- tral Alps comprehends the greater part of Switzerland, with the portions of the Tyrol lying west of the Adige, along with the Lombard valleys to their natural boundary — ^the Lake of Garda. The third volume is devoted to the Eastern Alps, extending from the Adige nearly to Vienna, and from the plains of Venetia to the neighbourhood of Munich.
Although the activity of Swiss and German naturalists and mountaineers has left less scope for new explorations in the two latter volumes, the writer trusts that they will be found to contain a large amount of information, either new, or not easily accessible, derived from his own observations or those of his correspondents.
It may be a satisfaction to future travellers if the writer here expresses his conviction that, in spite of all that has yet been done, no portion of the Alps can, in a topographical, and still less in a scientific sense, be said to be thoroughly explored. In districts supposed to be well known, an active mountaineer will constantly find scope for new expeditions ; and if he has cultivated the habit of observation, he may, at the same time, make these subservient to the increase of knowledge.
It has been a matter of great difficulty to reconcile the necessity for compression with the abundance of materials at hand, and the writer cannot expect to escape criticism from aders who may fi nd one or other subject imperfectly treated
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PREFACE. IX
Though it is hoped that the work will be found useful for reference, as containing a large body of topographical and other information, it is primarily intended for Alpine travellers, and the object kept in view has been to select the matter most likely to be of use and interest to that class. Had it been designed as a history of Alpine adventure, it would be open to the reproach that it does not adequately notice the labours of earlier explorers, such as Saussure, Hiigi, Zumstein, and many other surviving travellers, nor often refer to the earlier autho- rities. The writer has perhaps more reason to fear that tra- vellers may reproach him for having admitted too much matter, than for undue brevity.
In respect to expeditions which have been made but once, or very rarely, the writer has usually given the account in an abridged form, but in the actual words of the traveller whose initials are subscribed, and whose name is given in full in the annexed list.
To the authors of these and numerous other useful notes which have been communicated in MSS. to the writer, he begs hereby to express his cordial acknowledgments, and his hope that they will continue to furnish further information towards future editions of the work. At the risk of appearing to fail in more special acknowledgment to others who have contributed valuable matter, he feels bound to offer his especial thanks to Messrs. W. Mathews, jun., and F. F. Tuckett, and to Colonel Karl V. Sonklar, of Innsbruck. The two former gentlemen, in particular, have afforded invaluable assistance by the corrections and hints which they are each so well able to afford, and which were the more necessary as the work has been for the most part executed at a distance from England, and with but limited opportunities for consulting works of reference.
Several words not generally admitted in the sense here intended have been employed, along with foreign words having no exact English equivalents. Thus : * pedestrian,' * mountaineering,' * glissade,' *bergfall,' and several others have no other excuse than convenience to justify their introduction.
J. Ball.
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CONTENTS.
f
PA6B
Prepacb T
INTRODUCTION.
Art. L Preliminary Information : Passports — Money— Custom-House
Regulations — Measures — Electric Telegraph — Post-OflSces . xiii
„ n. Routes for approaching the Alps xvii
„ IIL Plan of a Tour xxi
„ lY. Modes of Travelling in the Alps xxii
„ V Guides and Porters . xxvi
„ VI. Inns xxxi
„ YII. General Advice to Travellers in the Alps xxxiv
,,yill. Ad nee to Pedestrians xxxviii
n IX. On Mountaineering xliii
„ X. Climate and Vegetation of the Alps : Chiftlet Life in the Alps . 1
„ XL Alpine Zoology . , Ivi
„ XII. Meteorology and Hypsometry of the Alps : Instruments used
by Travellers lix
„ XIIL The Snow Region of the Alps : Glaciers— Avalanches . . Ixi
„ XIV. Geology of the Alps Ixix
„ XV. Books connected with the Alps : Alpine Maps . . . cxix
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INTEODUCTION.
Art. X. — PrellminarT Xnformatioii.
Passports.' — Money. — ■ Custom-Housb Regulations. — Measubes. — Electric Telegraph. — Post-Offices.
Passports, — English travellers are not now required to produce passports in Germany, Italy, or Switzerland, and in the Austrian States they are rarely called for, except on passing the frontier. Notwithstanding these changes, it is very unwise to travel without a document which, throughout the Conti- nent, is the legal mode of establishing the identity of the bearer. At Post- offices and other public establishments it is convenient, if not indispensable ; and at a time when political refiigees, and persons charged with graver offences, are objects of suspicion, or it may be of arrest, those who may suffer by mistakes as to identity have no reason to complain if they neglect the best means for securing themselves against such accidents.
Passports are procured at the Foreign Office, Downing Street, by leaving or sending a recommendation from a member of Parliament, or banker, or a certificate of identity signed and sealed by a magistrate, clergyman, solicitor, or surgeon. The passport is delivered on the (bllowing day upon applica- tion, either personally or by message, and the payment of a fee of 2^. The application must state the name in full of each male member of the family, and that of each man-servant ; but where there is any probability of mem- bers of the same party separating, it is better that they should be provided with separate passports. The passport should always be carried on the
?erson, as the few occasions when it may be required can rarely be foreseen, 'he visa of a minister of each foreign State in which the bearer intended to travel was formerly indispensable, but this is no longer required, even in the Austrian dominions. There are several Passport Agency Offices in London where the whole business of obtaining the passport, and any need- ful visas^ is transacted for a small fee. This is especially convenient for persons residing in the country.
Money, — The coinage of Switzerland and Italy has now been assimilated to that of France, and accounts are kept in francs and centimes. The consequence is, that the best coin for travellers to carry in those countries is the French gold Napoleon of 20 francs. It is often convenient to procure
Xiv INTRODUCTION.
Napoleons in London before starting for a journey, and the exchange is usually rather more favourable than on the Continent, varying from 25 fr. 10 c. to 25 fr. 25 c. for the pound sterling. Exchange offices, at which the fair rate of Exchange is given, are — for the west end of London, Messrs. Smart, 61 Princes Street, Coventry Street ; for the east end, Messrs. Spiel- mann & Co., 79 Lombard Street.
English sovereigns and Bank of England notes can be exchanged in most towns on the Continent, and are generally taken by the principal hotel- keepers, but in many parts of Italy and Germany they are little known, and are not readily taken at their true value.
In Italy inconveriible bank notes have taken the place of the gold and silver coinage since 1866. For the laj't four years the depreciation has rarely exceeded 5 per cent. ; but the prudent traveller will take the first opportunity to exchange gold for paper.
In the Austrian States ihe coinage has undergone many changes during the last 20 years. The present coinage consists of silver florins, closely agreeing in value and appearance with the English two-shilling piece, and of quarter florins, corresponding in value to the English sixpence, but of larger size. The florin is divided into 100 Kreutzprs, and pieces in alloyed metal of 10 and 5 Kreutzers supply the intermediate steps between the Kreutzer and the quarter florin. It may be remarked that the Kreutzer and 10 Kreutzer pieces correspond exactly with the mill and cent of the proposed decimal division of the pound sterling,
Austrian silver money circulates throughout Germany at the rate of 3 florins to 2 thalers, and is also current in the Venetian provinces of Italy, at the rate of 1 florin to 2 J francs. Throughout the Austrian empire the place of the silver florin is taken by paper money. The Government notes which usually represent the value of 1 florin, 5 florins, or 10 florins, being incon- vertible, are depreciated to an extent that has varied of late years from 10 to 14 per cent. Strangers, arriving with a supply of silver money, are liable to lose the advantage of the difference of value between this and paper money if they omit to exchange their silver for whatever amount of bank notes they are likely to require.
Accounts in the Tyrol are still sometimes kept in gulden schein, a description of depreciated money which has long ceased to have legal exist- ence, but which survives in the reckoning of the country people. In this system the florin was gradually reduced in value till worth about lOd, English, and the Kreutzer the 6th part of a penny. When a demand is made that seems unreasonable, the best plan is to assume that it is made in schein^ and to enquire how much the sum named will make in bank notes.
A little experience teaches travellers the importance of being always pro- vided with small coins of the country, and when it is possible to procure a supply before arriving a^ the frpntiey, it is generally bpth convenient and economical to d«> so. ^ ^
It is remarkable that in Switzerland, in Austria, and in most parts of Italy, the coinage has been changed within the last few years without any appearance of the inconvenience and dissatisfaction that have been appre- hended in this country by the opponents of change.
Circular Notes for sums of £10 and upwards are issued by many of the LoQ^on Joint Stock and Private Banks, and may be cashed in most of the
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PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. XV
chief towns on the Continent. By taking the precaution of keeping the notes separate from the letter which accompanies them, the holder is secure from ultimate loss, though not from inconvenience in the event of losing the one or the other. The correspondents of the English bankers to whom these letters are addressed in France, Italy, or Switzerland, usually give pretty nearly the current rate of exchange, clear of any charge for com- mission. According to the writer's experience, the same cannot be said in South Germany, and he has found it a far more economical plan to travel in that country with French gold, which can be changed in every town at the current rate of exchange, and to avoid dealings with bankers.
Custom- House Regulations. — The regulations affecting travellers are not usually very strict ; the examination of luggage at most foreign Custom- houses is now little more than a formality, and is often confined to one or two out of a large number of packages. Of the articles generally carried by travellers, cigars and dresses of cotton or woollen material, not made up, are those usually liable to duty. As a general rule, it is much better to declare such articles. A small number of cigars msiy usually be taken free. In sending heavy luggage from one place to another, it should not be forgotten that whenever it passes from one State to another it is liable to examination at the frontier. The keys should be attached in such a way as to be acces- sible to the Custom-house officers.
As a general rule, official persons on the Continent are civil and obliging when treated with the courtesy to which they are accustomed. Both in Italy and Austria this holds almost universally. In Prussia, and at times in France, the case is otherwise ; and the temper of the traveller is tried by the rudeness of underlings. But unless the case be serious enough, and the facts sufficiently plain, to call for a complaint to the official superior, a wise traveller will disregard misconduct which he cannot resent effectually, and which it is undignifie<l to meet by an unavailing show of anger. These sub- ordinate officials often have it in their power to cause great annoyance to a stranger, while he is powerless as regards them, and he will do best to avoid an unequal encounter.
Measures, — To the traveller, and even to the readers of books of travel or scientific works, the want of an uniform system of measures among civilised nations is a constant source of inconvenience. The gradual extension on the Continent of the French metrical system, which, though not free from defects, is the best yet adopted by any government, has mitigated without removing this source of annoyance. In the territory included in this work several systems are adopted by government authority, and several old measures are in use among the country people.
The measures most needed by a traveller are here given with their equi- valents in English standard measure : a complete list would be beyond the scope of the present work.
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Xvi INTRODtCTION.
French Measures,
1 MMre = 3*2809 Eng. feet = 3 ft 3f in. very nearly.
1 DecimMre ... « 8*937 Eng. in. = 3 in. 1 1 lines nearly.
1 Millimetre ... «« '03937 Eng. in. = J line nearly.
1 Kilometre ... « 3280*9 Eng. feet =« 6 furlongs, less by 6 J yards.
1 Myriam^tre ... » 10 kilometres... » 6 miles 1 furlong 156 yards.
1 Hectare *» 10,000 sq.m^tres^ 2 acres 1 rood 35 perches very nearly.
1 Old Paris Foot « 1*066 Eng. foot « I ft. 9^ lines, or 1^ ft. nearly.
1 Lieae de Poste b 4 kilometres ... » 2^ miles, less by 25 yards.
1 Kilogramme ... «= 2*204 lbs. avdps. « 2 lbs. 3| ozs. nearly.
The Paris foot, though it has long ceased to have legal currency in France, is still used in works printed elsewhere, and the heights of mountains, &c. on the older maps of Switzerland are given in this measure.
Swiss Measures.
\ Swiss foot = 3 decimetres ... « 11 inches 10 lines nearly.
1 New Swiss Stunde « 16,000 Swiss feet » 3 miles, less by 92 feet
1 Swiss Post » 3 Stunden « 9 miles, less by 92 yards.
I Old Swiss Stunde « 5375*5 metres ... » 3 miles 2 furlongs 153 yards. 1 Swiss pound ...... <» ^ kilogramme ... « 1 lb. 1^ oz. nearly.
The old Swiss Stunde, still used by the country people in many parts of the country, represents more nearly than the new measure the average dis- tance travelled in an hour by a man on foot over an ordinary country road.
Italian Measures. 1 Piedmontese mile = 2466*08 metres ... «=» 1 J miles 57 yards.
1 Italian mile = 1851*85 metres ... « 1 mile 1 furlong 45 yards.
1 Italian post «= 8 Italian miles ... » 9 miles 1 furlong 142 yards.
The metrical system has been introduced within the last few years, but a variety of local measures are still used. The Piedmontese mile is confined to the west and north of Piedmont ; throughout the rest of the north of Italy the Italian or geographical mile is in general use.
Austrian Measures. 1 Vienna foot ... « '3161 metre ... = 1 foot 5| lines or I ^ feet nearly.
1 Klafter « l '8966 metre .., « 6 feet 2 inches 8 lines.
1 Austrian mile « 4,000 Klafter ... =4 miles 5 furlongs 157 yards. 1 Austrian post » 2 Austrian miles » 9 miles 3 furlongs 93 yards. 1 Vienna pound » *56 kilogramme » 1 lb. Sf oz. nearly.
Electric Telegraph, — ^Travellers are not so fully aware of the convenience afforded by the electric telegraph as they probably will be hereafter. In no country is the telegraph so extensively in use as in Switzerland. All the towns, and many smaller places, are now connected together, and for one franc a short message may be sent by which rooms are secured, or any other requisite provision made in anticipation of the traveller's arrival. During the crowded season, when ladies are of the party, it is always expedient to write or telegraph for rooms.
The telefjraph is also available in many parts of the N. of Italy, along the main roads in Austria, and in the French Alps.
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ROUTES FQfi APPfiOACHING THE ALPS. XVll
PiMt Offices. — Serious inconvenience and anxiety is sometimes caused bj the non-receipt of letters addressed to travellers on the Continent. The cases of failure of letters sent from the Continent to England are much less common, and rarely happen to persons who take the trouble of carrying their . own letters to the post-office, and not trusting them to waiters and messen- gers. The French post-office rules are needlessly strict, and the clerks often disobliging and rude, after the fashion of Frencn officials ; but letters very rarely go astray. The Italian practice is, on the contrary, too lax. Letters are often given to any stranger who chooses to apply, without a passport or . other evidence of identity ; and, in the case of foi'eigners, a parcel of letters is sometimes handed to the applicant, who may take from it such as he thinks proper to claim. The German post-offices do not often give cause for com- plaint when letters are very clearly addressed, except that delay sometimes occurs which is attributed to the curiosity of the police. The worst managed post-offices in Europe, unless a great reform has been very recently effected, are those of Switzerland. Instances of scandalous carelessness and neglect have been so common as to be a serious drawback on the pleasure of travelling in that country.
As a general rule, the safest plan is to have letters addressed to the care of a banker in any city where the traveller intends to receive money ; or else to some well-known hotel, where the traveller is already known, or to which he writes, announcing his arrival, and requesting that his letters may be taken in and kept until he shall claim them. Unless this precaution be taken, it is better to liave letters addressed Poste Restante. In remote places in the Alps it sometimes happens that the village where the traveller puts up is a dependency of some more important place in the same valley, and that letters addressed Poste Restante are retained at the chief office.
The facility for forwarding luggage safely from one place to another, addressed to the Poste Restante, is of great convenience to Alpine travellers. The charge is generally very moderate ; but not so in Switzerland, where 30 or 40 ft ancs are sometimes payable for a single portmanteau sent from one town to another.
It is now generally known that it is better to avoid the addition * Esquire,* in addressing persons on the Cimtinent, and that to avoid confusion it is advisable always to add the Christian name, with the French prefix * Monsieur* or ' Madame: * e.g.<, * Monsieur Robert Smith' — * Madame Sarah Brown.'
Ikttm U. — ^Roatos for approaelitng tbe Alps.
It 13 true that a person travelling by railway sees less of the country through which he goes than those who travel with post horses along a road, yet it may be safely asserted that no class has profited more by the extension of railways than tourists in the Alps. To that large majority who are limited either as to time or money, the means of crossing half Europe with an out- lay of but 24 hours in time, and a trifling expenditure of 'money, very often makes a tour possible which otherwise would never have been undertaken. The extension of railways on both sides of the Alps has not merely enabled strangers to approach the Alps with little loss of time, but has greatly increased the facilities for passing from one part of the chain to another; 80 that a
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XVm INTRODUCnOK.
traveller mnj now combine in a sin^^le tour visits to several different and distant districts, allotting to each of* them a fair share of time, and expending but very little upon the intermediate space. Attention is here directed to the chief lines of railway by which various parts of the chain of the Alps may conveniently be approached, but every traveller should obtain the latest and most reliable information. Bradshaw*s Continental Railway Guide, once very defective, has been much improved. On the Continent Chaix's *' Guide au Voyageur * is the best, but it is safer to get the local railway guide for each country.
The most direct route from London to most parts of the Alps is by Parrs. To reach Savoy or the south of Switzerland the shortest way from Paris is by the Lyons railway as far as Macon, and thence by Amherieu to the Culoz Junction station. Here the original line is carried on to Geneva, while the ni^in ime leading to Italy passes southward to Chambery, and thence to Turin, traversing the great tunnel through the Alps, near Modane, where travellers change carriages. There is but one fast train daily from Paris for Geneva or Chambery. This is the night express, starting at 8.40 p.m., and carrying none but first-class passengers. Geneva is reached in 14 hrs., Chambery in 13} hrs., and Turin in 21^ hrs. Those who dislike night travelling may leave Paris at 11 a.m. on the preceding day, sleep at Macon, and take the train there at 6 a.m. next morning. A slow train, carrying second and third-class passengers, leaves Paris at 3.5 p m., and takes nearly 21 hrs. to reach Geneva and about 30 hrs. to reach Turin.
By one or other of the two lines here mentioned the traveller may withm 24 hrs. from Paris reach, almost any point in the main valleys of the Alps of Savoy or South Switzerland. From St. Michel or Modane any place in the valley of the Arc may be reached on the same day (see § 7). The junction of the valley of the Arc with that of the Isere is close to the Chamousset station, and the traveller finds there a diligence or omnibus b^ which he may at once proceed to Albertville, M«)utier3, or Bourg St. Maurice (§11)' ^
Arriving at Geneva at 10.35 a.m., the traveller anxious to proceed at once on his way, may easily reach Sallenches, St. Gervais> or Samo^ns, on the same evening, and, if in hot haste, may even arrive at Chamouni before the night is far advanced. Taking the train by the Quest Suisse railway, he may not only establish himself in some of the tempting spots to he found on the Lake of Geneva, but may reach before night many of the chief places in the valley of the Rhone and its lateral valleys. Thus Champery IS accessible from Bex (§ 17), and Orsi^res from Martigny (§ 18), or by sleeping at Sion, or at Sierre, the present terminus of the railway, or Turtman, which may be reached by road, the traveller may, on the following day, find himself in the very heart of the Pennine chain at Evolena, Zinal, or Zermatt, unless his aim be the range of the Bernese Alps, in which case he will, with equal ease, reach Kanderstes or An der Lenk.
If the Dauphin^ Alps be the first object of the tour, the most direct course will be from Paris to Lyons, and thence to Grenoble, in 15^ hrs. from Paris by the 8 p.m. night express. There is no difiiculty in at once continuing the journey to Bourg d'Oisans (§ 8), or La Mure (§ 9). Uriage is also most easily reached from Grenoble ; but AUevard (§ 10) is more con- veniently accessible from the Francin station on the railway connecting Grenoble with Chambery.
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ROUTES FOB APPROACHING THE ALPS. Xix
' A line of railway which should be more useful than it is to Alpine travellers is that which connects Paris with Neuchfitel hj Dijon, Ddle, aqd Pontarlier. The night express leaving Paris at 8 p.m. takes nearly 15 hrs. This is the most direct route for English travellers bound for the Bernese Alps or most parts of Western Switzerland.
At present the shortest route from Paris to most parts of Switzerland is by Basle. Formerly it was necessary to make a long detour by Strasbur^, but a more direct line by Troyes, Langres, and Mulho^use has been open for the last few years. There are two express trains, one leaving Paris in the morning, the other at night, by which Basle is reached in alM>ut 13^ hrs , and there is time to reach almost all the easily accessible points in the Alps of central and northern Switzerland in the course of the following day, by the branches of the Central Swiss railway diverging from Olten and leading to Thun, Lucerne, or Zurich.
Although the shortest way from London is by Paris, since Basle is reached in 25 hrs., a majority of travellers prefer the far more interesting route by Belgium and the Khine» Those who are not much pressed for time allow at least three days between London and Switzerland. Leaving London at 8.30 P.M., and taking the steamer from Dover to Ostend, they reach Cologne at 4 P.M., and can spend the evening there, visiting the cathedral, or go on to Bonn. The next day is spent in the Rhine steamer, sleeping at Mayence, Frankfort, or Heidelberg. After a morning given to the Castle of UeideU berg, Basle may be reached at 7 p.m., or by taking the early train the tra- veller may get on to Berne, Thun, Lucerne or Zurich. The hurried traveller can make the journey much more expeditiously. Starting from London at 7.40 a.m., and taking the Ostend steamer, he may reach Cologne at 11. 25 P.M., and continuing the journey by Mayence and Darmstadt arrives at Heidelberg at 8.40 a.m. After a delay of 25 min. he may go on to Basle, reaching that place at 5.10 p.m., in good time fbr the evening trains to Bern, &C. An alternative way is to leave London at 8.35 p.m., reaching Cologne at 4 p.m.; going on by the Mayence train at 5 p.m., Heidelberg is reached, via Darmstadt, at 11.20 P.M., and Basle at 6 next morning, in 33^ hrs. from London.
Eastward of Basle the next main line of approach to the Alps is by the Lake of Constance. Two lines of railway reach the shore of the lake. The Wurtemberg railway, whose terminus is at Friedrichshafen, carries passengers from the north and north-west ; the Bavarian Railway, ending at Lindau, n the route for those coming from the centre and east of Germany. For travellers from England the route through Paris has no advantage in point of time ; the difference, indeed, is trifling, but the expense is greater. Leaving Paris by the night express, travellers reach the Carlsrulie station at 1.10 P.M., German time. The so-called express train (very slow) from Carlsrube, by Miihlacker, to Stuttgart, reaches that city at 3.48 p.m., and gets to Friedrichshafen at 10.25 p.m., in about 39 hrs. from London.
By the Cologne route a traveller who has left London at 8.45 p.m., may reacli Mayence at 8.56 p.m. the next night ; and if he go on to Bruchsal, and there take the night train to Friedrichshafen, he will arrive at 8.35 a.m. in 36 hrs. from London. Stopping to sleep at Mayence or Heidelberg, he reaches Friedrichshafen next day by the evening train at 10.25 p.m. ; at
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XX INTRODUCTION.
tbe same time as if he had started from London 11 hri. later and had tra* veiled without stopping by Paris and Strasburg.
Passengers from the north or east of Germany, takinof the early express train from Augsburg, reach Lindau in 5 hrs., and proceeding by steamer to Rorschach, may arrive at Coire at 7 p.m.
The steamers on the Lake of Constance, plying four or five times a day between the towns on its banks, and connected with the Grerman and Swiss railways, offer great facilities for travellers bound for anjr part of the Alps, Besides the direct line to Coire, there is easy communication with Zurich and the west of Switzerland, while by landing at the Austrian port of Bregeni they may enter the Tyrol by the road of the Voralberg.
The most direct route to the Tyrol or Venetian Alps, is, however, by Munich and the railway over the Brenner. The way is the same as that just mentioned to Friedrichshafen as far as Ulm, and the time taken by th^ night and day direct trains is about the same. Corresponding with these are trains for Innsbruck and the Brenner. That starting at 11.10 p.m. is the more expeditious. It reaches Innsbruck at 3.32 a.m., Botzen at 9 a.m., Trent at 10.29 a.m., and Verona at 1.20 p.m. on the following day. The tn^in which leaves Munich at 10.45 a.m. con«umes 19 hrs. on the way to Verona. It is characteristic of the tardigrade German mind that whereas, even at the present rate of travelling, a traveller might easily be conveyed from London to Verona in 48 hrs., he cannot perform the journey in less than 57 hrs., and the Mont Cenis line (by Paris and Turin) is able to compete with that of the Brenner for the traffic to Verona and Venice.
Tne so-called Rudolphsbahn railway, connecting Styria with Carinthia, has been opened as far as Villach. It will facilitate the progress of tourists in Styria, but is not likely to be one of the main lines of communicatioa from England.
The railway from Vienna to Trieste may be said throughout the greater part of its course to skirt the eastern extremity of the chain of the Alps, and therefore serves as the most convenient route for travellers proceeding to the Styrian or Carintbian Alps. For some reason not intelligible to ordi« nary understandings, the management of railways being nowhere regulated by simple motives of public convenience, the direct line from England and NW. Uermany to Vienna, by Nuremburg, Ratisbon, and Passau, has but very lately been made available for travefiers. Passengers from England, via Cologne, now find one slow but direct train corresponding to that which leaves Cologne at 5 p.m. by which Vienna is reached in 28 j hra from that city. Gra^z is reached in 6 hrs. from Vienna by express train, and Marburg on the Drave in 1^ hr. more.
The same line of railway from Vienna to Trieste, with the branch con- necting it with Venice, Milan, and Turin, by Goritz, Udine, and Treviso, offers a convenient means for connecting a tour in the Eastern Alps with a visit to the lakes and valleys of Lombanly and Piedmont.
It is on the southern side of the main chain of the Alps that the mountain traveller derives the greatest advantage from railway communication. All the principal valleys open into the main valley of the Po. For the western half of the chain Turin forms a natural centre of communication, which is now connected with seven towns at the opening of as many different valkys, namely, Cuneo, Saluzzo, Pinerolo, Susa, Ivrea, Biella, aml^Arona. It is
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PLAN OF A TOUR. XXI
thus easy to pass in a few hours from any one of these places to the other, thus avoiding the delay and inconvenience of a hot journey by road across the plain. Other lines, connecting the plains with the southern valleys of the Alps, are in progress. At present there are opened the lines from Milan to Como by Monza, and to Lecco, by Bergamo, and the important line from Verona to Innsbruck, by which the traveller, starting in the morn- ing from the plam of Italy, may reach before night the heart uf the Tyrol Alps.
Railways on the Continent differ much in respect to the relative comfort, or discomfort, of the second-class carriages. In Italy and Germany they are usually well fitted up, and are often used by travellers of the higher class, and sometimes, thoush less commonly, by ladies. In Belgium they are less comfortable, and the same is true in f^rance, where, as a general rule, express trains take first-class passengers only. On a long journey it is always best to travel in first-class carriages.
Art. ZZI. — Wimn of a Tour.
The tastes of travellers in the Alps are too different, and the objects which they propose to themselves too various, to make it easy to offer useful advice respecting the plan of a tour. The desire to see as many remarkable places as possible within a given time is so natural in beginners, that it is useless to contend agfdnst it. Nothing but experience suffices to prove that to derive the fullest and most permanent satisfaction from natural scenery, even more than from other sources of aesthetic enjoyment, time is an essential element. When the impressions retained after a visit to some chosen district- where the same grand objects have been viewed repeatedly and in varied combination, under those changeful conditions of sky and colouring that constantly succeed each other in mountain countries — are compared with the imperfect recollections that remain after a hurried tour, most persons discover that they do not in truth make the most of their time when they arrange an expedition to the Alps, with a view to do as much as possible within a given number of days and weeks. It is gradually ascertained that the true plan of a tour in the Alps is to select a succession of places com- bining the requisite attractions as head-quarters, and to arrange the journey so tiiat as much time an possible shall be devoted to these, while as little as possible shall be given to travelling from one to the other. It is true that the advantages of such a plan are far more evident to those who are fortunate enough to have some pursuit, scientific or artistic, which connects itself naturally with their journey. The weather in mountain countries is subject to frequent change, and there are days when the scenery is hidden behind a veil of cloud, rain, or snow. To the unemployed tourist inaction is so irksome that he prefers to trudge doggedly along an Alpine track, seeing nothing of the country, rather than await fair weather in a mountain inn ; while to the naturalist or geologist, or other traveller with an occupation, such days, if not too frequent, are acceptable as giving time to digest tnd put in order the niaterials accumulated during preceding mountain expeditions.
This work is designedly arranged so if to direct travellecs4o theTmost
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XXU INTRODUCTION.
convenient centres in each district of the Alps, and those especiallj fitted to serve as head-quarters are pointed out in the remarks prefixed to each section. To these indications, and to the body of the work, travellers of some experience are referred. The outline tours prefixed to each division of this work are intended mainly for those who wish within a short time to visit the most remarkable scenes accessible to persons of moderate strength and enterprise. Although arranged so as to correspond with the three main divisions of the Alpine chain, it is easy to combine portions of one with the other, so as to suit individual wants.
Art. ZV.— Modes of Travolliaff In tlio Alps.
Railway 8, -^In a preceding portion of this Introduction (Art. II.) most of the railways that approach, or partially penetrate, the chain of the Alps have been referned to. Apart from the facilities they afford for travellers arriving from a distance, the Swiss and Italian railway systems are of great service to mountain travellers by enabling them with the least possible ex- penditure of time and trouble to transfer themselves from one centre of interest to another. Few persons will suppose that passing through a mountain country in a railway carriage can enable them to form any correct idea of its attractions, yet there are a few lines, especially those from Culoz to St. Michel, from Geneva to Martigny, and from Botzen to Verona, where a succession of beautiful pictures is unrolled before the traveller's eyes. When going from one place to the other in the order mentioned above, he fehould endeavour to secure a seat on the rt. hand side of the carriage. Travelling in the opposite direction he should of course prefer the 1. hand seat.
Steamers, — All the principal lakes of the Alps are now traversed by steamers. Wherever they exist they offer an easy, speetly, and economical mode of travelling of which tourists are not slow to avail themselves.
Posting. — Since the general extension of railways and steamers has made a private carriage a positive incumbrance to the traveller, posting has become unusual except on certain lines, such as the passes of the Splugen and Mont Cenis, where, by mutual arrangement between the postmasters, the same carriage may be taken throughout. Those who dislike the slow pace of voituriers, and do not object to the trouble of changing the carriage at each xelay, may sometimes with advantage resort elsewhere to posting. In Switz- erland, Italy, and the Eastern Alps, especially Bavaria, the carriages found at the post stations are generally convenient, and in many large towns a carriage may be hired for a tour, and consigned at the end of the time to some correspondent of the owner. In Switzerland and the German Alps one or two travellers, with a moderate amount of luggage, may post in a one- horse char, at a rate little exceeding the hire of a country vehicle of the same description. In Italy there is scarcely a village reached by a road where a vehicle of some description may not be easily hired, but it requires some experience to resist overcharges. Details respecting the separate tariffs are found in the notes prefixed to each division of this work.
Voiturier (Ital. Veiturino ; Germ. LohnhtUscher), -^By these names a chss
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MODES OF TBAVELLING IN THE ALPS. XZUl
of persons entirely unknown in England, but very widely spread over the Continent, is designated in France, Italy> and Germany. The profession attained its highest development in Italy, and in spite of the interference of railways it still flourishes throughout the peninsula. The vetturino, in that country, is a man who keeps for hire a carriage and horses, with which he is prepared at all times to underta,ke a journey of any extent, and in any required direction. The wealthier men of this class often have a large luimber of vehicles which usually ply along a particular line of road, and in that case they are often able to arrange so as to change horses on the way when the traveller is pressed for time. As a general rule, however, the vetturino makes the entire journey with the same horses, undertaking to supply others if his own be disabled, and he should be bound to pay all charges for tolls, bridges, extra-cattle attached to the carriage in long ascents, and all other incidental charges. The Swiss voituriers found at Geneva, Berne, Lucerne, Coire, &c., are as a class similar to those of Italy, and in both countries there is no great ditficulty in finding tolerably comfortable carriages and good liorses. The average distance travelled is from 35 to 45 miles a day, and while on the road they travel nearly or quite as fast as post horses, but a rest of at least two hours is required in each day's journey. To a party of fHends travelling through a fine country, and not pressed for time, this is often an agreeable mode of travelling, and those who are unable to ride or walk may, sometimes with advantage, take the same vehicle for the whole, or a considerable portion, of their tour. In this case it becomes important to select a trustwortliy man, and to secure his good conduct by a proper agreement. For this purpose, as a general rule, it is expedient to obtain the at Ivice of the hotel-keeper, or other respectable inhabitant of the town where the carriage is hired.
As a general rule, the Italian vetturino, after the fashion of his country, demands considerably more than he means to take, and will have but a mean opinion of his employer if the latter does not beat down considerably the sum first named. With the exception of this point, which is disagreeable to Englishmen, the writer has had little cause of complaint agamst Italian vetturini. When once they have ascertained that extortion will be resisted, they usually forbear further attempts in that direction, and are remarkably civil and good-humoured, doing their best to deserve the gratuity whicn the traveller willingly gives to them at parting. The Swiss voiturier, or German lohnkutseher, is usually, though not always, more direct in his deal- ings, but is often slow, and obstinate, sometimes sulky and perverse, alwajis a much less pleasant fellow than his Italian comrade. The Savoyard is at least as anxious to overreach as the Italian, and is besides often disagreeable. In the French Alps generally, except on the road between Greneva and Chamouiii, the facilities for travelling are in all respects inferior to those found in the other countries here named.
The usual charge for a carriage and pair of horses for a short journey of one or two days is from 1 franc to 1 shilling per English mile, including SU extras. For a long journey the fair price is from 25 to 30 fr. per day ; but if the carriage be discharged at a distance from home, a demand is made for back fare at the same rate. When the road is one much frequented this should be resisted, but some extra payment on this account is usually made.. It is often possible to arrange a tour so as to return to the tow|i whence the
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XXIV INTRODUCTION.
trayeller started, or to its neighbourhood, and this is T>oth economical and otherwise convienient, as heavy luggage may be left in the charge of the hotel-keeper. For a short journey a written agreement is not necessary, but it is well to make the verbal agreement in the presence of the hotel -keeper, " und to take care that it shall be speei6c on the point of excluding extra charges on whatever pretext. When it is intended to take the same carriage for a longer time, it is prudent to have a written agreement. This should reserve to the traveller the choice of route and inns, and specify the rate of payment per day when travelling, with a reduced charge, usually one-half, for days of rest. It should always be provided that the traveller shall be at liberty to discharge the carriage whenever he pleases, on payment acjtordinjf to the time it has been employed, and it is well to add that the carriage shall be reserved exclusively for the use of the hirer, as attempts are sometimes made by the driver to take a passenger with him on the driving seat.
It should be noted that the rate of payment above mentioned is always exceeded on the great passes of the Alps, where the voiturier incurs extra expense for cattle hired to assist in drawing a heavy carriage in the ascent ; and that at times when the traffic is very great-, increased rates are often successfully demanded elsewhere. A traveller who is able to secure goo<l horses and a comfortable carriage for a tour of some length, at the rate of 40 fr. a day while travelling, and 20 fr. for days of rest, may consider that he has made a good bargain. It is oft«n necessary to pay 5 fr. a day more than those rates. Although it is well to stipulate that the driver shall have no right to demand any gratuity under the head of hoTmemain^ bttona^ mono, or irinkgeld, it is always well to let him know that if pleased with his services the traveller will, at his own option, make him some moderate extra payment at the close. About 2 fr. a day is a reasonable gmtuity.
One of the chief inconveniences of travelling by voiturier arises from the various forms of speculation to which it gives rise. Each voiturier is in some way connected with numerous innkeepers and other persons, who hope, by his aid, to make a profit out of the traveller, and various devices are used to induce or compel the traveller to put up at certain inns in preference to others. In towns it is always possible to obtain reliable information, and the traveller should make his selection for himself; but at smaller places, where the choice is limited, it often happens that the inn patronised by the voiturier is in reality the best. It is also not uncommon for voituriers to make private arrangements for the transfer of a traveller and his party from one to the other. An Englishman is often disposed to object to a bargain of which he is himself the object, but the writer has found that unless there be obvious reason for objection, it is better not to resist. The traveller should assure himself that the new carriage and horses are not inferior to the first, and take the same precautions in making his arrangements with the new man that were necessary at first starting. Many complaints have been made as to the voituriers on the road of the St. Gothard between Flueien and Bellin- zona, and rather more caution is needed on that line than is requisite else- where. In the Canton of Berne the local authorities have fixed a taritf of charges for hired carriages which must not be exceeded. It may be found at the principal hotels. This interference with free-trade does not seem to have been imitated elsewhere.
CJuxTi, — One-horse vehicles, fit to travel on rough couDtnr^roads impass*-
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able for larger carria^fes, are to be found in most parts of the Alps. In the districts frequented by strangers, small light caleches have taken the place of the roujjher vehicles used by the country people, which are found else- where. These vary in form, and are fijenerally uncomfortable, though con-- venient for the purpose intended. The einspdnniger Wagen of the German Alps, and the carettino of some parts of Italy, are light narrow carts, with seats hung across, quite unprotected against rain. In other parts of Italy the calessina, or light cal^he, protected when necessary against rain and suHf is the common mode of conveyance. In Savoy and South Switzerland the char-k-banc, an inconvenient vehicle containing three seats, laid side* wAys on a pole, and surrounded by a leather curtain, is happily becoming less common. The charge for these vehicles varies from half a franc to 80 cent, per English mile, with a bonnemain or trinkgeld, of from 10 cent, to 15 cent, per mile. More is often asked, but it should be recollected that in Switzerland and the German Alps the rate for posting little exceeds that amount.
DUifcencett, — All the great lines of road in and about the Alps that have not been supplanted by railways, are traversed by diligences, and Switzer- land is particularly well supplied in this respect. The carriages are tolerably comfortable, and the service generally well conducted, but those who travel to see the country are not likely often to use these conveyances. From the coupi and the banquette'^ BomQ limited view is gained ; from the interieur and the ratonde, next to nothing. The fares in Switzerland vary according as the road traversed lies in the low country or over a mountain pass. In the first case the rate is 80 cent, per Swiss league of 3 miles, in the coup^ ; 60 cent, in the interieur and the banquette. On mountain roads the rate is 1 fr. 15 cent, for the coup6; 1 fr. for interieur and banquette. The French diligences cost rather more, those of Italy and Germany rather less, than the above rates.
. On the south side of the Alps omnibuses are found plying between all the towns and large villages and the nearest railway stations. They are extremely cheap, but usually very disagreeable conveyances. They may, however, often be used for sending travellers* spare luggage from one place to another.
Ridings — Horses or mules well used to Alpine paths, and with side-saddles for ladies, are found for hire at most of the places frequented by tourists. As this is the mode of conveyance commonly adopted by ladies, and by tourists unable to walk, it is important to remark that it is oidy in such places that reliable animals are to be found. Those accustomed to transport mer- chandise, or to carry wood or forage from the mountains, may be used to rough tracks, and therefore surefooted, but are unaccustomed to the saddle, and liable to become restive in dangerous places. Several narrow escapes from fatal accidents have, within the writer's knowledge, arisen from this cause, usually from a side-saddle carried by some enterprising English lady, and laid for the first time on the back of the animal. Ladies who design exploring the less-frequented valleys of the Alps will consult their own comfort and security, and much reduce their expenses, by arranging their journey so as either to make one longer circuit, returning near to the point whence they start, or a succeasion of shorter tours, each beginning at and leturaing to some central place. At each starting-point the animals required.
Xrvi INTRODUCTION.
for the party, with one or more men to take charge of them, should be carefully selected. With ladies, it is prudent to take a guide for each horse or mule, and on difficult ground the guide should always go before or beside^ never behind the animal. It is a rule of the first importance to abstain from interfering with the animal in difficult and dangerous places. Accidents very seldom occur from a fall when the animal is left to his own eaffacity, but commonly in cases where the rider has attempted to interfere with him. To this cause is attributed the unfoHunate fate of a French lady, dashed to pieces in 1861 when riding down the Gemmi Pass. In the writer's opinion, it is never wise for a lady to descend along ledges of rock overhanging a precipice otherwise than on foot, or in a chaise-k-porteur. A slight slip in such a situation may endanger the rider.
The usual charge for a horse or mule per day is 10 fr., besides 1 or 2 fir. for the boy who takes care of it. At Chamouni the daily charge is 6 fr., but the same sum is payable to the guide who accompanies it. On the south side of the Alps there are not many places where mules used to carry a rider are kept for hire. The charge for mules engaged in unfrequented places should not exceed 8 or 9 fr., including the pay of a boy. Ketum fare at the same rates is always demanded.
Chaise'd'Porteur (Ital. Portantina; Germ. Tragsessel) is an arm-chair supported by two poles, and carried by bearers. In Savoy and the Valais four bearers are usually considered necessary, and even six where the person to be carrfed is at all heavy ; but in the Bernese Oberland, and in North Switzerland, two men will often undertake to carry a lady of light weight for several successive days. This mode of conversance is well suited *for ladies who are able to walk a little, but fear the fatigue of a long day's ride. Some persons soon accustom themselves to the motion, but to others it is always disagreeable. There is, however, a great difierence between men who are used to the occupation, and beginners who jolt and shake the seat in an uncomfortable fashion. The ordinary pay of each bearer is 6 fr. a day, with the same daily pay for the time required to return to the place ' of departure.
It may safely be asserted that none of the various modes of conveyance here enumerated are more than imperfect substitutes for the only means of travelling completely satisfactory to the lover and student <»f nature. Walking is so peculiarly the suitable way of visiting the Alps that it is most conveniently discussed separately, in a future part of the Introduction. See Alt. VIII.
Art. V. — Guides and Porters.
In the same proportion as the number of strangers annually resorting to the Alps, the inducements to the natives to adopt the profession of guide have constantly increased during the last half-century. The large majority of tourists do no more than follow a frequented path, where one native of the district is as well able to lead him as another. The increased desire to explore the less accessible parts of the Alps, and to undertake difficult and dangerous expediticms, has led to a demand for the services of a superior class of men, who possess in a high degree the special qualities of the mountaineer. Although there is no recognised dbtinctiozil^tween the two.
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GUIDES AND PORTERS. XXVU
classes, and the best guJde, when not otherwise engaged, is ready to carr3r a ]adj*8 shawl over the easiest Alpine pass, while there are few ordinary guides who acknowledge themselves to be unfit for a difficult ascent, there is in fact as wide difference between them as between the most eminent and the inferior men in any other profession* The practice of taking the same suide throughout an entire tour, which has become very common among Alpine travellers, has led to another distinction better defined than the last between general and local guides. While the latter have no pretension to go beyond the bounds of their own immediate district, the others are meit who have acquired a tolerablv wide acquaintance with the more frequented parts of the Alps, who speak French or German, and sometimes a litlie English, and have a sufficient knowledge of the dialects used in difierent parts of the chain to serve as interpreters, and as useful travelling servants. The men who unite the qualities of the mountaineer with a wide range of local knowledge are naturally the most valuable to the Alpine traveller, and their number is limited, though annually increasing to meet the extensive demand. The best men are usually engaged weeks, or months, beforehand by members of the Alpine Club. An ordinary tourist has no occasion to seek for men of this class, but he n^ay find it an excellent plan to secure the services of a steady respectable man who will accompany him throughout his tour.
In the cantons Berne and Yalais, and at Chamouni, the local authorities deliver to each person authorised to act as guide a small book, containing a certificate of good character and general fitness, wherein his employers enter their names, and add such remarks as they think proper. Before engaging an unknown guide it is always expedient to inspect his book, and it is often well to consult the innkeeper before making a choice. In the event of a guide making what appears an unjust demand at the close of his engage- ment, the traveller is advised to require him to state in writing the par- ticulars, and to add his name and address. This statement, with any needful explanation on the part of the traveller, should be forwarded to the jvge de paix of the place where the guide resides.
The duty of a guide is not merely to point out the way, but further to make himself generally useful to his employer. He is expected to carry a knapsack of about 20 lbs. weight, and to find himself in the articles requisite for his profession, such as rope and ice-axe. In strictness he is bound to feed himself out of his pay, but whenever it is necessary to carry food to eat on the way, or to pass the night at some mountain chalet where provisions are not forthcoming, it is a matter of course for the traveller to take a supply sufficient for his guide. When a guide is taken for an extended tour, he is expected to feed himself, but it is only reasonable that the traveller should make allowance for any extraordinary and unforeseen dharges in<^ curred by the guide. The ordinary pay of a guitie for an ordinary day's work is 6 francs, and the same daily rate is considered fair for a tour of some length when days of rest alternate with days of severer exertion, save that, as a general rule, a traveller who parts with a guide after several days or weeks of companionship, and who is content with his service, adds a gratuity proportioned to the work done. Those who engage a first-rate guide, with a view to difficult expeditions, usually agree to pay at least 8 fr. a day ; but i( several such expeditions be made during a tour of some w^eks, it Js but ^
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just to remember that a guide engaged specially in sucb cases is entitled by tariff or by custom to a rate much exceeding the ordinary pay, and that the permanent guide has an additional claim to a gratuity at the close of his engagement. The right to pay at the rate of 6 fr. a day for the return journey from the place where a guide is discharged to that from which he started, unless his services be transferred to another traveller, is universally recognised, and this is one of the reasons which often make it positively economical to retain the same guide for a considerable tour, where he may - be discharged at no great distance from his home.
Guides of the ordinary class are usually found wherever a regular demand exists for their services. In selecting them more caution is advisable on the south side of the Alps than in Switzerland or the Tyrol, but as a general rule they are well-conducted and obligin^^. The only defect common among the Swiss guides is a fondness for liquor, a failing that has been injurious to some of the best Oberland men. The higher class of guide, possessing the strength and activity, combined with courage, coolness, and skill, that make the accomplished mountaineer, is formed only by the union of training and experience with the requisite natural faculties. The raw material may be said to exist wherever chamois-hunting is a favourite pursuit of the young and active men. But this of itself does not suffice. The most skilfril Pyrenean chasseur placed on the summit of the Strahleck pass would probably be overpowered with terror, and if unaided would be little likely to reach Grindelwald or the Grimsel ; while many good Oberland guides would hesitate before trusting themselves on the face of a dizzy limestone precipice, that is traversed with ease by the Aragonese cragsman with his apargaias.
Active men and bold climbers may be found here and there in most parts of the Alps, but it is mainly at Chamouni, in the Bernese Oberland, and in the Valab, that the degree of experience and skill requisite for contending with the difficulties of the snow and ice region of the Alps is to be acquired.
In opposition to the popular belief as to the characteristics of the French and German races, the Chamouni men are marked by steadiness and . perseverance, rather than by daring and dash. In the latter qualities the Oberland guides take the first place, but as companions in a tour they are seldom so attentive and agreeable, and are usually rather inferior in education. The love of wine and strong drink is much less common among the Chamouni men than in Switzerland. With two or three brilliant exceptions, the Valais guides are decidedly inferior to their rivals, being wantmg in energy and scarcely reliable in situations of real difficulty. At the risk of doing injustice by involuntarily omitting deserving men, a list of the best known guides, and some information as to their special qualities, and the districts with which they are acquainted, is appended to this section.
On the south side of the Alps, and in Tyrol, guides scarcely exist as a class. It is usually easy to find a trustworthy man who is fit to show the way over a well-known pass, and to carry the traveller's knapsack, at the rate of 4 or 5 francs daily. It is better to apply to the innkeeper, or in remote places to the curS^ rather than take without enquiry persons who come to offer their services. A traveller planning an excursion of any difficulty in these less frequented districts should enquire for the best known chamois-hunters, for it b amongst these only that he is likely to find assistance ibntj as mea*
GUIDES AND PORTERS. XTOX
of unsteady character sometimes take to that pursuit, he will do well ta ascertain from Competent authority that he is in safe hands. In cases of reference to an innkeeper or parish priest, a reserved answer, wlierein the referee declares that he knows little of the man in question, is to be taken as an unfavourable reply. The reference should of course be made before the traveller has committed himself, or declared positively his intention to make the expedition.
Porters, — In the districts where ojuides exist as an organised body, possess- ing an ex<:lusive right to exercise that calling, a subaltern class of porters has iprown up, and in some places has been equally subjected to regulation.' The port-er*8 business is to carry luggage over beaten tracks where there is ho need of a guide, or in longer and more difficult expeditions to assist the pruides by carrying the heavier articles required for a part of the way. Forters generally are content to receive 5 francs a day, usually increased to 10 fr. for a long and difficult day*s work ; but in the southern valleys of tha Alps a traveller undertaking to provide food, may often procure a useful man of this class for about S fr. a day. In the Bernese Oberland, porter» (Grerm. Trager) demand 6 fr. a day, but they carry a much heavier weight than is usnd elsewhere. Some of these men make no objection to carry 40 or 50 lbs. of luargage a distance of seven or eiofht leagues.
Much useful information as to guides and tariffis is contained in the 'Kalender und Noti;;buch ^r Alpen-Beisende/ published by Liebeskind^ of Leipzig.
List op the best knowk Guides, with thbib Addresses alphabetic allt arranged.
Christian Aimer (of Grindelwald). First-rate, uniting daring, steadiness, and intelligence. Knows well the Oberland, and all the Western Alps.
Ulrich Aimer. Son to the last ; a very rising young man.
Melchior Anderegg (of Meyringen). First-rate in all respects. He has most ex- tensive knowledge of the entire chain of the Alps.
Jacob Anderegg (of Meyringen). Cousin to the last ; first-rate; enterprising to the verge of rashness.
Franz Andermatten (of Saas). Excellent, strong, and cheerful Probably the best man in the Valley of Saas.
Daniel Ballay (of Bourg St Pierre). A very good guide, knows the Pennine and Graian Alps welL His brother Emmanuel makes a good second.
Peter Baumann (of Grindelwald). Very good in the second rank.
Hans Baumann (of Grindelwald). First-rate, has had much experience.
Franz Biener (of Zermatt). Known as Weissho^ Biener, to distinguish him from a very inferior man of the same name. He is a good steady man, and has gained much experience.
Caspar Blatter (of Meyringen). Very good, bold and steady ; knows the Ober- land welL
Peter Bohren (of Grindelwald). Good ; not strong enough to be first-rate, an4 rather past his prime ; knows the Oberland and Pennme Alps welL
Jean Antoine Carrel (of Val Tonrnanche). First-rate cragsman. Best guide for the Matt«rhom, and with wider experience may go anywhere.
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Joseph Marie Claret (of Chamouni). Very good ; knows the Savoy and Oher<' land Alps.
Jean Bapt. Croz (of Chamouni). A good guide, but past his prime.
Fran9ois Devouassoud (of Chamouni). The best guide at Chamouni since the death of M. Croz. Has very extensive knowledge of the Alps; speaks . . Italian and some English. His brother Henri makes a good second.
Michel Ducroz (of Chamouni). Very good ; has made several difficult ascents.
Peter E^rger (of Griodelwald). Excellent guide.
Johann Fischer (of Meyringen). A very rising man, highly spoken of.
Julien Grange (of Courmayeur). The best guide of that place. Not quite first- rate.
Peter Iniibnit (of Grindelwald). A very rising man ; he has not travelled much, and will improve with experience.
Andreas Jaun (of Meyriugen). A powerful but rather heavy man. Makes a good second in a difficult expedition, but not quite in the first rank.
Johann Jaun (of Meyringen). An excellent man. Though young knows the Oberland and Pennine Alps well.
Ulrich Kaufinann (of Miiblebach, Grindelwald). Very good and experienced man.
Christian Lauener (of Sandweidli, Lauterbrunnen). A first-rate guide, good- tempered and obliging. Has great knowledge of the Alps.
Ulrich Lauener (of Lauterbrunnen). A most powerful man, who has been a first- rate guide. At times rather noisy when the d^y's work is over.
Peter Lauener. Cousin of the last two ; very good, nearly in the first rank.
Franz Lochmatter (of Macugnaga). A very pleasant, good-tempered man, who knows his own district well. . Not quite filrst-class. His brother Alexander deserves the same remarks. Both are somewhat exacting.
Jean Joseph and Jean Pierre Maquignaz (of Valtournanche). Good men for the Matterhorn and difficult expeditions in the same district The first is the better man.
Jean Martin (of Sierre). A very good and experienced man, scarcely first- rate.
Christian Michel, Peter Michel (both of Grindelwald). Brothers, and both men of high repute. The health of Christian (the better man) has suffered much. Peter is a sure but rather slow man ; he knows the Oberland well.
Peter Perra (of Zermatt). Has been the best guide at Zermatt, but not first-rate. Well acquainted with the Pennine and Graian Alps.
Peter Rubi (of Grindelwald), A very good man, not quite first-rate.
Benoit Simon (of Chamouni). Said to be one of the best men of that place.
L^on Simon (of Les Praz, Chamouni). A good and intelligent man.
Joseph Basil Simond (of Argentiere). A very good man, who has travelled ex* tensively through the Dauphine, Cottian, and Graian Alps.
Santo Siorpaes (of Cortina d'Ampezzo). The best guide in S. Tyrol, an excellent cragsman. Has travelled with Mr. Tuckett.
Joseph Tairraz (of Chamouni). Has been a very good guide.
Simon Michel Tairraz (of Chamouni). Good second-rate man ; knows Pennine Alps well.
Tobie Tairraz (of Les Pras, Chamouni). Has travelled much ; is an excellent steady man, recommended as a guide to ladies.
Johann Tannler (of Wyler, near Meyringen). A good steady man.
Anton Walther (of Laax, Valais). Very strong and daring. Was long employed at the .Sggischhom, but has had some experience in other districts.
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Ulrich Wenger. A good guide for moderate expeditions in the Oberland, bat has neither strength nor jadgmeat enough for difficult ascents. He speaks French well, and a little English.
Art. VX. — Zniifts
So much does the comfort of travellers depend upon the ffoodhess or badness of the accommodation found at inns, that it is not surprising if thej exact a degree of accuracy on this point from a guide-book that, from the nature of the case, it is impossible fully to attain. Assuming that the information at the Editor's disposal were always very recent, there is a great degree of uncertainty about the impression left upon a passing traveller by an inn where he remains for one or two nights. One traveller happens to arrive when the house is crowded, the larder ill-provided, the servants and the master tired. He is ill-lodged, ill-fed, and ill-attended, and as a natural consequence his report is highly unfavourable. A few days later another traveller is lodged in the best rooms, finds abundant supplies, and is treated with attention. The second report is, as it ought to be, entirely different fix>m the first. There are but a few hotels of the best class so well arranged, ' and under such skilful and active management, as not to be liable to such vicissitudes. In truth, however, the information obtainable often dates back two or three years, and in that time very many changes occur. The manage- ment of an inn, especially a large one, requires constant activity and watchfulness on the part of some one directly interested in its success ; and it constantly happens that a change of management, or a mere relaxation of the innkeeper's activity, caused by over-prosperity or by engaging in other pursuits reduces a hotel from the first to an interior rank. At the same time new houses are every year opened in the frequented parts of the Alps ; so that between the falling off of old, and the rise of new inns, it is impos- sible to achieve invariable accuracy. Yet it will probably be found that the indications given here are, as a general rule, more correct than the interested recommendations of voituriers, boatmen, guides, and tlie like. Those who use this book will confer a favour on the Editor, and on future travellers, if they will note down the inns at which they stop in the course of their tour, with such observations as they consider due, and communicate the same to the publisher for use in a future edition. Such information is useful even in respect to the most frequented places, whether the traveller's judgment agree with that here expressed or not.
It is generally known that no country in Europe is so well provided with inns as Switzerland. The hotels in the more frequented places leave very little to be desired by the most fastidious, and in country places they are generally much superior to similar establishments in our own country. The beautiful valleys of the Italian Alps are far from being equally well supplied, but the increased influx of strangers has led to considerable improvement. Though less frequented by strangers, the Lombard and Venetian Alps sre decidedly in advance of Piedmont. The writer has been in the habit of stopping in remote villages and hamlets wherever convenience dictated, without caring to make previous enquiry as to the accommodation to be found there, and he has rarely failed to obtain tolerable food and a clean
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bed. Higher praise than this is due to the country inns in the Austrian Alps. Ill the 'i yrol, Salzburg, and part of Stvria, but especially in Carinthia and Carniola, it is a rare exception when a village inn is otherwise than a comfortable and agreeable stopping- place, where excellent living is rendered doubly acceptable by the kindly manners of the people of the house, and the charges are so moderate as to make it a matter of surprise how any profit, however small, can be made from the business. The French Alps present a disagreeable c<mtrast. With but very few exceptions, a traveller entering an inn in Dauphine must be prepared for filth and privation, and not seldom his ill-humour is aggravated by an extortionate bill. The same observations ai)ply, in a somewhat less degree, to the provinces of Maurienne and Tareniaise, in Savoy. The provinces of Chabluis and Faucigny, between the valley of the Arve and the Lake of Geneva, partake somewhat of the character of the adjoining parts of Switzerland.^ Cleanliness and comfort are better understood, and barefaced extortion is ^ not so often attempted. In many Swiss inns, and in some towns in Italy, more attention is paid to the habits and tastes of English travellers than is usual on the Continent. The ordinary hour of the table d'hote being one o'clock, there is often a second table d'hote at five o'clock. English mustard, pretty good tea, and other desiderata, are to be had ; and some of the principal hotel-keepers have gone so far as to open an English chapel; and offer inducements to a clergyman to officiate during the summer.
There is but one department in which English inns maintain a superiority over those of every part of the Continent. In the latter the use of water- closets has as yet made but little progress, and even when they exist they are frequently in an offensive condition. The usual substitutes for them are a source of foul smells that too often disgrace even first-rate hotels. In France these places are perfectly horrible, forming an unaccountable exception to the general advance in civilisation. Italy ranks next lowest in the scale ; while in Germany and Switzerland some elementary ideas of cleanliness and decency are not foreign to the soil, though there is still much room for improvement. The only way to effect a reform is by repeated remonstrances, and by making it known to innkeepers that attention to this department will attract, while neglect will as eertainly repel, English travellers. The Editor hereby requests that his correspondents will enable him, by information on this point, to indicate in future editions of this work by a distinguishing mark the houses that deserve favourable or unfavourable notice in this respect.
It is difficult to give information as to the expense of living at inns which can be serviceable to travellers. The effects of railroad communication and fiscal reforms are every year more evident in the tendency towards an equalisation of prices throughout Europe. Some differences will doubtless continue to exist, and Italy and Southern Germany are still considerably cheaper than England or Switzerland. Apart from the fact that the price of living is higher, it is fair to recollect that a large capital is often invested in Swiss inns which remain open but four or five months, or even a shorter time; and that some of them are built in places where constant labour and expense are needed to procure the necessary supplies. The lowest charge for a single bed in the better class of Swiss inns is 2 francs, and in second class and country inns 1^, or 1 franc. In the larger hotels more is charged fup
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INNS. xxxm
rooms on the first or second floor, and also for those commanding a view. The charge for the early table cThote at one o'clock is from 3 to 4 francs ; for that at 4 or 5 p.m. one franc more is usually demanded. Breakfast of tea or coffee, bread and butter, and confiture^ or honey, IJ franc, rarely 1 franc. Eggs and meat are charged separately. Attendance for a single person 1 franc daily : for a party it should not exceed 75 cents, or even less per head. Sitting-rooms are charged daily from 4 to 8 francs each. In the first-class hotels, besides a handsome salle k manger, one or more rooms, containing books, newspapers, and a pianoforte, are usually open to persons staying in the house. As it is the practice for ladies to avail themselves of these public rooms, a sitting-room is by no means necessary.
All over the Continent it is the usual custom for persons travelling in a party, and intending to remain some days, to enquire the price of their apartments, and if this appear high to make some observation, which usually leads to a reduction.
Many English travellers are haunted by the disagreeable impression that, in tlieir capacity of Englishmen, they are marked out by innkeepers and «tiiers, and made to pay higher prices than are demanded from tourists of other nations. The writer believes that, with rare exceptions, there is now no ground for this suspicion. Formerly the case was otherwise. So long as the English were not content to travel in the same manner as foreigners <jf the same social position, they were naturally treated in an exceptional manner. None but persons of the highest rank and ample means are used on the Continent to have their meals served apart in a sitting-room ; and when English travellers, in this and other ways, showed an apparent in« difference to expense, it was but natural that they should be treated as if they were so. Of late years our countrymen have not only learned to conform to the usages of other nations, but, as a body, they show themselves quite as attentive to economy as other travellers of the same means and station. As a general rule, innkeepers are disposed to think that what they call a familie^ i.e., a party including ladies and one or more servants, is a &ir mark for higher charges than they would attempt with single men. Thus a party, perhaps, remaining for a single night, will find wax candles charged in the bill at the rate of two for each room which they occupy. It is necessary to have a deduction made for those not used, and to prevent the waiter from lighting more than are wanted.
In j ustice to themselves and the public, travellers should take the trouble to look over their bills, and to point out for reduction any items that appear unreasonable. Should a simple remonstrance fail, there is generally no use in further resistance. The extortion must be gross indeed that will not be sanctioned by the local authorities, should a traveller lose time by resorting to them. There is but one effective threat to which innkeepers are usually very susceptible— that of exposure in English newspapers and guide-books, and this, in gross cases, should always be enforced. Cases of shameless extor- tion are usually confined to the meaner class of inns, or to those which have been opened expressly for tourists in some Alpine route. No reasonable person will object to pay somewhat more than the usual rate of accommoda- tion at an inn set up expressly for the convenience of a limited class, but it is well to make the owners understand that by unreasonably high charges they defeat tlieir own object. ,
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XXXIV INTRODUCTION.
ilTt. VZZ. — General Advice to Travellers In tbe Alps.
Season for Travelling, — The higher parts of the Alps are most easily acces- sible during the height of summer ; but it is not generally known that many districts, including much beautiful scenery, are seen to the best advantage in spring and autumn. In the month of May the neighbourhood of the Swiss lakes, and more especially the valleys of the Maritime, Lombard, and Venetian Alps, may be visited with full satisfaction. The vegetation of those districts is then seen in its full beauty, and many mountains of moderate height, commanding noble views, may be ascended without difficulty, though in some seasons a good deal of snow still remains on the secondary ridges. In June the rapid transition from winter to spring, and from spring to sum- mer, is completed throughout all the inhabited valleys of the Alps. For the ordinary tourist who does not aim at difficult ascents, this would be the best season for travelling, were it not that the weather is usually more changeable than in the three succeeding months. Even for the aspiring mountaineer the second half of June possesses many advantages. The length of the day greatly facilitates long expeditions ; the glaciers are more easily traversed, as the crevasses are narrower, and are more covered over by snow-bridges ; and slopes of ice or rock, very difficult at other times, are made easy by a covering of snow that yields to the foot Recent experience confirms this opinion. The first ascjent of the Aletschhorn, and several other difficult ascents, have been made towanls the end of June, and persons who have crossed the Col du Geant, and other broken glacier-passes, have been surprised to find few or none of the usual obstacles. On the other hand, it should be remembered that the snow at this season is ill consolidated, and that a slight disturbance very easily produces avalanches. Certain couloirs and very steep slopes that are tolerably safe later in the year, are highly dangerous in the early season. The use of the rope, always expedient, is doubly so at a season when most of the crevasses are concealed by snow-bridges of uncertain solidity. There is also the inconvenience that there is usually a greater extent of soft snow to be traversed than later in the season. Another slight drawback to mountaineering in June arises from the fact that the cattle are not yet sent up to the higher pastures. The chalets to which the traveller resorts for milk, and sometimes for a night's rest, are not yet inhabited. For the same reason nothing can then exceed the beauty of the Alpine pastures, in the full blaze of their brilliant colours, before they are eaten and trodden down by annuals.
July and August are the months usually chosen by travellers in the higher parts of the Alps, and on an average of years the public is doubtless right in the selection. August is the season when the inns are most crowded ; and a traveller who has moved from place to place in July, does wisely to select comfortable and agreeable quarters for the succeeding month. One reason for passing this time in the higher valleys is the great heat that is then usually experienced in the low country at the foot of the Alps. The experience of many years has led the writer to believe that, on an average, the best chance of finding a continuous succession of fine weather, with the clearness of air favourable for distant views, is during the first half of September. During the summer it is rare to find more than three or four days together such as the mountaineer willingly chooses for an ascent, and even then the distant
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LANGUAGES SPOKEN IN THE ALPS. XXXV
horizon is rarely clear of clouds. Eight or ten consecutive days of perfect weather are often to be had in September. About the middle of that month snow usually falb on the higher Alps, sometimes descending to the valleys* Those who do not take flight are often rewarded by a renewal of fine weather, extending into October. The fresh snow and the shortness of the days make the season unfit for high and difficult expeditions; but it is most enjoyable in the southern valleys, where the great heat of summer is a serious impediment to the pleasure of travelling in the earlier season. The Italian lakes may be visited with satisfaction until the end of October, save that in that month a week or ten days of heavy rain, extending through the entire N. of Italy, may usually be looked for.
Languages spoken in the Alps. — It may safely be said that half the pleasure of travelling is lost to a person who is unable to speak the language of the country through which he passes. Englishmen are more often prevented from speaking foreign languages by shyness and mauvaise honte than by indolence or incapacity. As there is little room for shyness in con- versing, or attempting to converse, with a guide or waiter, a pedestrian expedition serves to help many persons over the first difiicult step of beginning to exercise the tongue in the production of unaccustomed sounds. The region included in this work is pretty equally divided between the German, French, and Italian languages. German, which has rathef the largest share, is spoken throughout nearly the whole of the German Alps, and through three-quarters of Switzerland, the division between the French and German districts nearly corresponding with a line drawn from Porrentruy to Sierre in the Valais. West of that line French is the language of the country, as it is throughout Savoy and Dauphine, and in the Val d'Aosta, and the Vaudois valleys of Piedmont. With those exceptions, and that of a few parishes at the foot of Monte Rosa inhabited by a German population, Italian is spoken through- out the southern valleys of the Alps, including the Swiss Canton of Tessin. In the valley of the Adige, which may be said to cut through the dividing range of the Alps, the division between the Italian and Ger- man population lies a little S. of Botzen. Elsewhere it usually follows the watershed.
With scarcely any exceptions, the three languages here named are not to be heard in a state of purity in any part of the Alpine region. Dialects, more or less corrupt and uncouth, prevail; but a stranger speaking the pure tongue can make himself understood, though he may find some trouble at first in understanding what is said to him.
Besides the three prmcipal languages, there are three or four others that occupy some small portion of the Alpine region. The Romansch, a distinct language derived from the Latin, and not, as some suppose, a dialect of Italian, is spoken in about two-thirds of the Canton Orisons, and is sub- divided into three dialects. Three or four newspapers appear in this language , but German is on the increase, and will probably before long supplant the ancient tongue. In the Sette Comuni, north of Vicenza — a district of table- land and mountain pastures, enclosed between the Brenta and the Astico — a peculiar language, supposed to represent the ancient Cimbric, still holds ita ground, but is being rapidly replaced hy the Venetian dialect of Italian. Either the same, or an allied dialect, survives in some valleys of the Italian Tyrol, between the Eisack and the head waters of the Cordevofe, A larger
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XXXVl INTRODUCTION.
space 18 occupied in the Eastern Alps by people speaking the Slavonic dialect, called by the Grerman, Krainerisch. From the valley of the Isonzo this extends throu<;h the Julian Alps, the Karawankas, and some other parts of Carinthia, Carniola, and Styria. German is, however, spoken by all the younger people of the country, so that a traveller has little trouble from this cause. He should, however, bear in mind that each place ha^ a German and a Slavonic name, and very often an Italian name also; and as these are some- times quite unlike each other, care is needed to avoid mistakes.
For the mere purpose of living at hotels, and making his way from one place to another, a traveller knowing French only, or German only, will meet no serious difficulty. At most hotels there are servants who speak both languages, and a knowledge of English is very general among Swiss waiters. Those enterprising Britons who travel on the Continent with no other medium of communication than their native tongue and a well-filled purse, may best make their way by the Rhine, and confine themselves to the Swiss Alps. They do unwisely in attempting to extend their tour to the S. side of the Alps.
For books containing information of a general character likely to be useful or interesting to an Alpine traveller, the reader is referred to Art. XV. A list of books, memoirs, and maps connected with Alpine geology is appended to Art. XIV. Lists of the best maps and most in- teresting books of a purely local character are appended to the preliminary notes prefixed to each part of this work. •
Expenses of Travelling. — The habits and wants of travellers are so various, that nothing approaching to a general estimate of the expenses of a tour can be given. It is not, however, difficult for a traveller to frame an estimate for himself A single man, contenting himself with ordinary fare, and the vin ordinaire such as is supplied at tables d'hote, need not spend at inns on an average more than 9 francs a day in Switzerland or Savoy, or more than 5 or 6 fr. in the Eastern Alps. Should he order fish, game, and foreign wine for dinner, he may easily double the above rate of living. To cover extras, he should allow Sd. a mile for every English mile travelled in a one* horse carriage. Assuming him to take a guide, either to show the way or to carry his knapsack, he must in Switzerland and Savoy allow 6 fr. a day on this account, and he may add 2 fr, more that in one way or other his guide will cost him. K his tour will admit of his returning near to the place where he first engages a guide, it will cost him no more to take the same man throughout his tour than to engage a fresh guide every second day for the purpose of continuing his route, since the men so taken must each in suc- cession be paid return fare. Should he intend to make considerable halts on the way, there will, in the economical sense, be a proportional disadvan- tage in taking a guide who must receive his pay whether employed or not. It may be inferr^ that, on a rough estimate, a single traveller should allow at least 16 fr. a day for his expenses in Switzerland or Savoy, and a little, but not much less in Piedmont, without counting the occasional hire of a vehicle, which may considerably increase the total. Two men travelling together will generally find one guide or porter sufficient for both, so that the above estimate would be brought to 12 fr. each. In the Eastern Alps it is easy to find a trustworthy man who will accompany a traveller for any number of days, and consider himself well paid with 3 or 4 fr. a day, besides his food
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EXPENSES OF TRAVELLING. XXXVU
(which may be counted at 1 fr. more), and his expenses in returninjr to his home. Apart from vehicles, the expenses of a single traveller in the Eastern Alps, speaking German or Italian as the case may be, need not exceed 10 fr. daily for himself and his guide, and those of two companions may be reckoned at 8 fr. each. It is obvious that the above estimates must be reduced in the case of a traveller who does not object to carry hiij own knapsack, and only occasionally enp^ages a guide where it is imprudent to venture without one. On the other hand, the total must be largely increased ^hen the traveller aims at effecting difficult ascents, or achievmg new or little-known glacier passes. Where two or more guides receive 30 or 40 fr. each, and it is necessary to lay in an ample store of provisions for two or three days, the expenses of a single excursion may amount to five or six pounds, or even more.
It is'Still more difficult to estimate the expenses of a party including ladies. Supposing the outlay per head at hotels to be the same as already estimated, there is generally considerably more to be reckoned for cost of conveyance. It is true that a carriage, costing in all about 1 J fr. per mile, will carry four or five travellers ; but whenever mules or chaises- d-porteur are taken over an Alpine pass, and sent back on the following day, it is necessary to reckon from 20 to 25 fr. for each mule, and from 25 to 50 fr. for each chaise-k-porteur.
When the traveller has made the best possible estimate of the sum he is likely to require for his Alpine tour, he should leave an ample margin for unforeseen expenses, and for his journey from England and back again. Persons who omit this precaution are sometimes put to serious inconvenience by finding their supplies fail before they have reached the city where they can renew them. A considerable number of Napoleons may be carried without inconvenience in the inside pockets of a waistcoat ; and, if travelling in Switzerland, English bank-notes, or circular notes of a London banker, may be changed from time to time at the principal inns where the tra- veller may stop. It is scarcely necessary to remind persons with any experience of the importance of being well provided with small change, the want of which causes inconvenience and loss.
General Rules for Travelling. — Of these it would be easy to make a long list ; a few only are here noted.
It is necessary to ariive at foreign railway stations 20 minutes before the hour fixed for the departure of the train. Failing this, difficulties are made as to receiving luggage, and the travellers are thrust into the worst places in the railway carriage.
All arrangements for vehicles, mules, guides, or porters should be made overnight. He who waits till next morning will find inferior articles and higher prices.
Avoid sleeping with open windows in low valleys, especially those liable to inundation.
Advice as to dietary is little needed, as most people in good health can live on the food they find on their road. It may be noted that Alpine mutton is too often tough and stringy. Veal and fowls are usually the best meat. Chamois venison, when in good condition and kept long enough, is good, but is rarely eaten in perfection. Trout are delicate eating, but are usually rather dear. The same may be said of ptarmigan and coq de bruyere* The Utter is excellent, but not often to be faiiuL ^ I
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XXXVm INTRODUCTION.
Very fair wine is made in the Cantons Neuch&tel, Vaud, and Yalais in Switzerland, in the neighbourhood of Chamb^ry in Savoy, in the Val d*Aosta, the Val Tellina, and the valleys near Verona; but the better qualities are rarely found in inns. Those who dislike the ordinary wine may best call for Beaujolais, a sound red wine found at most inns in Switzerland and Savoy. Some persons like Asti wine, a sweetish insipid liquor, usually to be had in Piedmont, and in many Swiss inns. Barbera is a strong and rough but sound Fiedmontese wine, which is found in Italian towns; but, as a general rule, no wine but that of the district is to be had at Italian country inns. Many travellers like the effervescing lemonade, which, under the name limonnde gazeuse, is found almost everywhere in Switzerland.
Most of the requisites for travelling are enumerated in Art. VIII. as especially important to pedestrians. A few universal requisites may be noted here.
Stationery, including writing-paper, pens, ink, sealing-wax, pencils, and drawing materials for those who use them, are best obtained m London. The same may be said of soap and an extra toothbrush, wants not well sup* plied on the Continent. Adhesive luggage-labels, and also those of parcn- ment, and a strap for fasteninor together plaids and other loose articles, should not be omitted. Many travellers carry a telescope ; but except for chamois- hunting, where it is indispensable, this is rarely useful. An opera-glass of moderate size is much lighter, and more useful. It also turns to account in visiting picture-galleries, theatres, &c.
When all other requisites have been supplied, the most important of all must be found by the traveller himself. Good temper and good humour are the (mly things quite indispensable for the enjoyment of travelling. It is not wise to yield too easily to the demands that are pressed upon a stranger, and every now and then a show of anger may be requisite to defeat imposi- tion ; but a man who when travelling labours under the impression that all the world is combined in a conspiracy to maltreat and overreach him, and who loses his self-possession in a dispute about a franc, or because a waiter is slow to answer his summons, will consult his own peace and the convenience of others by staying at home.
Art. VZZX.— Advice to Pedestrians.
There are few men in tolerably good health who are not able to walk quite enough to enable them to enjoy nearly all the finest scenery in the Alps. The process of training is to some rather irksome, and it varies from a few days to two or three weeks, according to the constitution and previous habits ; but this once accomplished, the unanimous testimony of all who have tried this manner of life declares that there is none other so enjoyable, and none so healthful for mind and body. Some patience and judicious preparation are needed to arrive at that delightful condition in which any reasonable amount of exertion is borne without fatigue, and a man, after a previous day^s walk of 30 miles over mountain and glacier, rises with the sun, refreshed and ready for fresh enterprise. Assummg that, on reaching the Alps, a traveller is not already in good training, he must carefully avoid overworking himself at first. He cannot begin better than by making the ascent of some one of those minor sununits that are placed round the outer
ADVICE TO PEDESTRIANS. XXXIX
nai^in of the great chain, and command views that often rival in beauty the panoramas from the higher peaks. Such are the Dent du Chat, Mont Granier, and Grand Som, in the French Alps ; the D61e, Weissenstein, Rigi, and Hohenkasten, in Switzerland; the Alotterone, Monte Generoso, Corno di Canzo, and Ritten, on the Italian side; and very many others that might be added to the list. On aiTiving at some place that serves for head -quarters, it becomes easy for a man to graduate the length and difficulty of his excur- sions to his increasing powers, being careful, whenever he feels somewhat overtired, to make the following a day of comparative rest.
If bis design be to carry his knapsack biraself, he will do wisely to begin with very short journeys. For the first few days it is felt as a decided encumbrance, and somewhat increases the labour of the day's work ; but after a short time the muscles become adapted to the effort, and it is scarcely found to make any difference, except to persons with tender feet, who are apt to feel the effects of the additional weight. For travellers who have not the instinctive faculty of finding their way without a guide, there is no inducement to take the trouble of carrying their own knapsacks; but quite apart from the saving, which to many may be a matter of indifference, the keen sense of absolute freedom and independence, and the intense enjoyment of nature, unbroken by the presence of even the most satisfactory guide, are motives enough to tempt many a man to rely on himself for his means of conveyance in the Alps. The writer warmly admires and sympathises with the feelings of those who have developed the ardent and aspiring style of mountaineering that has so largely increased our knowledge of the Alps, and all but * effaced the word ** inaccessible" from the Alpine dictionary;* but, for the sake of the next generation, he would think it a matter for regret if the life of Alpine travellers were to be always one of struggle and warfare. There is a keen pleasure in storming some citadel of nature, hewing the way axe in hand-, or clambering up some precipitous outwork ; but the recollec- tions of days of solitary enjoyment amid more accessible, and not less sub- lime scenery, leave an impression no less deep and abiding.
Equipment of a Pedestrian, — In giving the results of his own experience, confirmed in most points by that of many others, the writer is aware that temperaments are variable, and that what suits many travellers does not necessarily suit all. The inexperienced will generally do well to try, in the first place, what has been been found useful by others.
Clothing, — An Alpine traveller is occasionally exposed to cold and piercing winds, but far more often to great heat, the dire(;t rays of the sun in clear weather having a force which is quite unknown in England. Light woollen clothing is the best adapted to meet either contingency. The linen blouse, though sometimes very convenient, is not fitted for general use. Those who have any pursuit requiring them to carry instruments, note-books, or other extras, will prefer a shooting-coat to any other garment. It should have two inside breast-pockets, besides two out-side, provided with buttons, and two large and strong inner pockets (called hare-pocket-s) in the skirts. Those who may not require so much space should not forget to have at least one pocket large enough to contain a mounted map of large 8vo. size. Like the coat, the waistcoat should contain six pockets, i. e., besides those usually found, two watch-pockets, and two inside pockets to fasten with a button, Qoavement for carrying gold and notes. Knickerbockers and gaiters are
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Xl INTRODUCTION.
undoubtedly preferable to ordinary trousers, but most persons will wait- until this dress is more generally known before they carry it on a Continental tour.
The covering and protection of the feet is to the pedestrian a matter of the first importance. Half-boots are generally preferred to shoes. They cannot be too solid, strong, and durable in workmanship. In this respect English boots are probably the best. They should be large enough to admit freely the foot covered with the thickest and strongest woollen socks. It is difficult to induce shoemakers to estimate properly the strain upon the toes involved in a long and rapid descent of many thousand feet, and to make the front part of the shoe or boot long enough, and broad enough. The instep is the only part that should be comparatively tight, as the strain and friction is thereby partly removed from the toes, and transferred to the rest of the foot. Another defect often found in English boots, is that the heel is too much thrown back. It should be so placed under the ancle, as to bear nearly the entire weight of the body when in an upright position. For ordinary walking the writer is inclined to think that the best defence for the sole of the boot is by placing, at equal intervals of about I inch, nails with square steel heads of moderate size, and not projecting more than an eighth of an inch from the surface. The heel should be protected all round by larger and stronger nails. Although necessary, this is sometimes inconvenient : the more nails there are in the boots, the more caution is needed on smooth surfaces of rock. Everyone with the least experience knows that it is rash to commence walking in new boots. They should be worn for three or four weeks beforehand. Good boots are now to be had from several makers in London, but it is not easy to induce them to pay sufficient attention to the requirements of each customer. Porpoise skin is an excellent material, being pliable and very durable.
The writer has found it very difficult to procure woollen socks as thieve and strong as are required in Alpine walking. Such are made occasionally in Scotland, and in some parts of Piedmont. Gaiters are essential for walking in snow. As material, the writer prefers strong canvas bound with leather.
Coloured flannel shirts, of a kind not liable to shrink when washed, are the best dress to walk in, linen or cotton being kept for a change in the evening.
Grey felt hats, with moderately wide brim, are preferred by most travellers. When it is not intended to make the ascent of the higher peaks, a hat of vegetable fibre, of the kind called Panama, much lighter and giving better protection against the sun, is more agreeable.
Gloves of doe-skin, or those called in France castor, which are not spoiled by wet, are the best for mountain wear.
The Knapsack and its Contents. — In choosing a knapsack, the pedestrian wiU probably be guided by the consideration that if he should intend to carry it himself, he will do well to reduce the weight as far as possible ; while if he means to hire a guide to carry it, he need not be so careful on that head. In the latter case, and supposing him to keep to ordinary routes traversed by beaten paths, he may increase the weight to 20 or even 25 lbs. ; but if he intend to attempt long and difficult passes, he should avoid over- burdening the guides, who besides his knapsack have to carry provisions and other necessaries. In the writer's opinion, the best knapsacks for mottntain
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ADVICE TO PEDESTRIANS. xli
work are those sold in London, made of strong but li^ht oil-clotb, without any stiffening or frame. The common defect is that the straps are not wide enough, and press too much on the shoulders. A change of outer clothing is by no means necessary, though a second pair of light trousers is sometimes convenient. The following articles of clothing, in addition to those actually in wear, he believes to be sufficient for an expedition of several weeks : — One flannel shirt, three linen or cotton shirts, one pair drawers, two pair thick woollen socks if strong enough, two pair light cotton or silk socks, six pocket- handkerchiefs of silk or of linen, considerably thicker than is generally worn, one or two extra pair of doe-skin gloves, and, lastly, a waistcoat of thick knitted worsted, made with sleeves, as worn by the country people in some parts of France. This is invaluable in case of passing the night in a chalet, or bivouacking in some exposed place, weighing but a few ounces, and keeping the body very warm. Slippers are an all but indispensable luxury after a hard day's walk. Washing materials are most compactly carried in a small sheet of mackintosh with pockets for soap, brushes, &c. Those who, without being botanists, like to carry away some specimens of the beautiful vegetation of the high Alps will add a quire, or less, of soft thick paper, and a sheet of light pasteboard of the same size. By tying them up tight with a piece of twine, small specimens will dry perfectly in the knapsack. A tin sandwich-box is very convenient for keeping together many of the small articles next enumerated, which cannot all be carried in the pockets. There will generally be one or two extra maps not in actual use, and some will add a favourite book to the contents of the knapsack.
Small Articles to be carried in the Pockets or Knapsack,
A compass is often of great value ; it may be connected with a clinometer.
K note-book, with a good pencil, not such as are commonly sold with it, may have a pocket to hold a passport and two or three sheets of letter paper, envelopes, court plaster, &c.
A drinking-cup — indispensable — either of leather, or metal made to shut up.
A blue or green gauze veil, for protecting the eyes and skin when crossing snow- fields. A mask is a more complete protection to the skin, but renders spec- tacles indispensable.
A pair of blue spectacles, for the same purpose. Both should be taken.
A strong knife, and small corkscrew.
A light opera-glass.
A shrill whistle, for signalling to a guide or companion, is often useful.
Wax lucifer-matcbes: besides which, a smoker should not omit cigar-lights, which are not to be had in remote places.
Strong twine and a few pieces of thicker cord are often useful.
Lip-salve, or cold cream, or glycerine, to protect the skin in long exposure at a high level.
A little Arnica, adhesive plaster, and lint, in case of wounds or bruises.
A few Seidlitz powders or other simple medicine.
Needles, thread, and buttons, with a little strong black ribbon.
Of the lighter articles which turn to account in the traveller's dietary, the writer recommends a small supply of tea, half a pound of dried prunes or raisins, and half a pound of chocolate. On this head tastes will differ. Many travellers carry a flask; and it is often useful, though not at all jiecessary. Except in certain limestone districts, good water* is abundant
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in all mountain countries ; and in long and fatiguing expeditions the guides always cairj wine, which the traveller will do well to use with great moderation, and mixed with water. Kirschwasser and other spirituous liquors, though sometimes useful in cases of exhaustion, often do mischief by stimulating the circulation already over-excited. The writer has found cold tea, which may be diluted with water, or mixed with a little red wine, the best remedy against thirst.
Waterproof cap^s and overcoats are now made extremely light, and are easily carried; but, however useful on horseback, they are not to be recommended to pedestrians. A Scotch plaid, not too heavy, is incom* parably a more useful covering. When properly worn, it resists heavy rain ; it is often useful as extra covering, during a halt on a mountain-top when a keen wind is blowing, or in the evening in cold quarters ; and it is no less serviceable at night when a traveller sleeps in a hay-shed, or as a substitute for the suspicious coverings of the beds in the lower order of mountain inns. The plaid is best carried strapped to the knapsftck, and along with it the writer recommends a strong but not too heavy umbrella. This is even more useful as a protection against the sun than against rain. A strong wooden handle is far better than iron, which is often bent when exposed to gusts of wind.
Some special notice is due to the Alpenstock, the constant companion of the Alpine traveller. It must be owned that this article is not in the least necessary to the moderate tourist who follows beaten tracks, and it is equally true that those commonly sold in Switzerland are perfectly useless on those occasions when an effective alpenstock is required. A walking- stick with an iron point to it is convenient in ascending a steep and slippery path, and in descending there is an advantage in having it longer than usual. On this understanding, the ordinary alpenstock may be recommended to the ordinary tourist. The chamois horn that is often attached is positively objectionable, being likely to tear the hand in case of a slight slip. The alpenstock that is to serve a mountaineer should be made of seasoned ash, and strong enough to bear without the least sign of breakage the entire weight of the body at the middle, while the ends are supported. It should be thickest at the bottom, where it receives the point, and where it is some- times exposed to great strain when it happens to catch in a cleft ; and should taper gradually to the top where there is no risk of breakage. Tlie point should be made of tough steel, from 3 to 4 inches in length, and not too sharp. The writer has found it decidedly advantageous, when using the alpenstock for cutting steps in ice, to have the steel end made in the ^ape of a blunt chisel, or wedge, about three-quarters of an inch in width. The traveller who is not already provided with a trusty weapon, will do well to have the point made in England, of good steel, and to get the ash pole in the first town near the Alps, where he may halt for half a day. The steel point should have a long shank to be driven into the pole, and be secured with a substantial iron collar.
Still more essential than the alpenstock to those who wish to explore the higher regions of the Alps is the rope. The uses of this are noticed in the next Art. It is belter to procure this in England, though a tolerable article may be had in< most foreign towns. Some mountaineers use a fine sash- line. However good the material, this is too slight, both b^ause.it is too
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ON MOUNTAINEERINO. xliii
quickly worn bj pressure at a single point, and because it cuts the hands when used to draw up a heavy weight. Others carry ropes much too heavy, which become a positive encumbrance, and are sometimes left behind whea they are wanted. The best rope that the writer has seen is made of Manilla hemp, strong enough to bear the weight of several men, yet not heavy. A length of 40 ft. is quite enough for three men. There is some convenience in having each member of a party provided with a separate short piece of rope fastened round his waist, and with an end ready to • be fastened to a knot in the rope which serves as the common attachment, but it should be observed that every knot diminishes the strength of the rope to a perceptible extent. When this plan is. adopted, some extra care is required to see that each knot is well fastened. A leather belt, with a swivel spring-hook at- tached, is preferred by some.
The Ice-axe.— On this head the writer refers his readers to the report of a committee appointed by the Alpine Club, printed in the Alpine Journal, and also in a separate form. The traveller is not likely to provide himself until he has gained experience, the task of cutting steps being usually left to the guides, and when experienced will choose an implement to suit his own taste. The writer has found the form with a pick at one side most serviceable for botanical purposes ; and will further remark, that in a descent over a short ice-slope the chisel-pointed alpenstock, above spoken of, is a serviceable weapon.
Crampons are irons a little wider than the foot, and attached with a leather strap, having four points turned downwards. They are sometimea convenient on a moderately steep snow-slope, when the snow is too hard to yield to the foot, but is pierced by the crampons. On hard ice or rock they are useless and disagreeable, and therefore not in favour with mountaineers. Screws of hard steel, with square four-pointed heads, and arranged in a convenient way for being driven into the soles and heels of boots, are sold by Lund in Fleet Street. These are found very useful, but in walking ov«p rocks it is difficult to avoid knocking them out of their places.
iLrt* XX.— On Monntaineeringr.
Its DirricuLTiBs and Dangers — Needful Precautions. All active exercises and athletic sports require a certain amount of training, in order that the muscles and senses may be used to act together. Most li^nglishmen acquire in early life habits of bodily activity that make mountaineering come easy to them, artd what more is required must be gained by experience. A few hints may, however, not be thrown away upon beginners. The quality of sure-footedness— a mountaineer*s first rfeJwVferatem — depends upon two habits, both easily acquired: first, that of lifting the foot well from the ground, and bringing it down at once ; secondly, that of observing the spot on which the foot is to rest. It is not mainly m order to choose the ground for each footstep that this is useful, though in some places it is requisite to do so : the chief advantage is that the muscles, being warned by the eye, are prepared for the precise exertion that is wanted at the moment. K aware that the next step is to be on rock worn smooth, an instinctive movement of the body is made to maintain the hold of the ground, when otherwise a slip would be inevitable. In the samejway a
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Xliv INTRODUCTION.
suitable sli<;l)t effort often prevents debris from slipping, but here the choice of the particular stone on which the foot is to rest becomes important. With habit, the slightest glance at the ground is sufficient, and the process is an almost unconscious one.
The chief use of the alpenstock is in descending over steep and rough ground. Grasping the pole in both hands, the whole weight of the body may be safely thrown back upon the point, and in a few minutes it is easy to clear by a succession of leaps a distance which otherwise would require thrice the time. It is often necessary to pass at a level along the face of a very steep slope. The beginner, involuntarily shrinking from the apparent danger, is apt to lean in the opposite direction. This is a mistake, as by causing an outward thrust of the foot the risk of slipping is much increased. In all such places the body should be kept perfectly upright, and the alpenstock held in both hands ready to steady the balance, or by a bold thrust at the ascending slope to stay the movement if the foot should begin to slip. It must be recollected that wherever the alpenstock is really wanted, it must be held in both hands. On very steep ground it is sometimes extremely difficult to avoid detaching loose fragments of rock, which may be a source of real danger to the traveller's companions. When possible, especially in a descent, it is best to take slightly different lines, so that the foremost shall not be in the way of stones sent down by the next comer. When this is not possible, the best plan is for the party to keep close together. The risk of harm is much less when the detached stone has not acquired a dangerous velocity.
The preceding hints apply to travelling over rocks and rough ground, such as may be found in all high mountain districts. The peculiar difficul- ties of Alpme travelling depend upon the extent of ice and snow that cover the upper region. The ice is chiefly in the form of glaciers, whose origin and constitution are described in Art. XIII. : the snow, except after a recent fall, is in that peculiar condition called nSvi. In ascending the Alps, the traveller usually begins his acquaintance with the ice region by traversing a greater or less extent of glacier ice ; if he continue tu ascend, he will reach the n^ve, and it may easily happen that, at a still greater height, he will find the surface covered with a layer of fresh snow. The surface of a glacier is sometimes very even and slightly inclined, sometimes steep and irregular, being cut up by deep rents called crevasses, which may vary from a few inches to many yards m width. When the sun has shone for even a short time upon the glacier, the upper layer of ice partially melts, leaving a crisp and crumbling surface, on which the foot holds very well ; but after rain, and before sunrise, the ice generally shows a hard and very slippery surface ; the foot, though shod with steel points, makes scarcely any impression, and it is necessary to cut steps with much labour on slopes that a few hours later may be crossed with ease. The lower portion of a glacier, below the point where the ice is covered with neve, is quite as easy and safe to traverse as if it were formed of rock instead of ice. Beasonable caution is needed in jumping over crevasses, but there is no more reason why a traveller should fall mto them than that he should walk over the edge of a chalk cliff on the South Downs.
Above the limit of the nev^ the obstacles that stand in the way of the mountaineer may properly be called dangers rather than difficulties, and aro discussed below under that head.
ON MOUNTAINEERING. xIt
In the ascent of the higher peaks of the Alps, the pleasure and excitement are not unalloyed by some inconveniences. The first of these is thirst, pain- fully felt by those who are not used to such expeditions. In this, as in other matters, prevention is better than cure. The practice of carrying a small quartz pebble in the mouth has been ridiculed, but it rests upon a rational foundation. By causing an involuntary movement of the jaws, it stimulates the salivary glands, and keeps the mouth moist. In cases where this means of prevention is insufficient, dried prunes or raisins are to be recom- mended; they are far more serviceable than drinking. The fruit should be kept in the mouth as long as possible, and chewed very slowly during the ascent. As a drink along with food, cold tea diluted is the best remedy for thirst.
Another source of inconvenience is the heat of the sun upon the head. A thermometer exposed upon the writer's black felt hat has risen to 151^ Fahr. It is only surprising that the consequences are not more serious to the wearer. A layer of cotton wadding tied round and over the hat gives some pro-- tection. At the risk of appearing eccentric, the writer has found relief from carrying an umbrella over the snow-fields.
More serious than either of the above is the risk offrost'bites, Numbness in the feet or hands is the first symptom. Vigorous clenching of the toes or fingers usually prevents mischief. When this has actually commenced, vio- lent rubbing with snow, and beating the parts affected, are the proper means for restoring circulation.
The painful atfection called mountain-sickness is due to the combined effects of unusual exertion and the diminished density of the air at great heights. It shows itself by difficulty of breathing, indisposition to exertion, headache, drowsiness, loss of appetite, and, if continued, by nausea. It is felt only by persons unused to the attenuated air of the high region ; and those accustomed to exertion at a height of 10,000 or 11,000 ft. rarely suffer in ascending the higher peaks of the Alps. As it seldom attacks travellers till they are near the goal of their exertions, it may usually be overcome by patience and perseverance. The patient should halt every twenty paces, or even oftener, and not resort to strong liquor as a restora- tive. The best proof that unusual exertion is the chief cause of the symp- toms, is the fact that they are never felt in descending, even from the highest summits. Although habit diminishes very much the evil effects, there is little doubt that all mountaineers are more or less affected by the mechani- cal and physiological disadvantages that attend muscular exertion at a crreat height. If the time be noted that is required to ascend two snow-slopes of equal height and steepness, but at very different elevations, it will be seen that much more is consumed at an elevation exceeding 13,000 ft. than is required at 9,000 or 10,000.
Long exposure to the glare of the snow, especially in sunshine, is very apt to cause inflammation either of the eyes themselves, or of the surrounding mem- branes. The precaution of wearing dark spectacles, or a gauze veil, or both together, should be adopted in time, without waiting till disagreeable sensations are felt. These show that the inflammatory action has begun. The conse- quences of neglecting these precautions are sometimes extremely painful. The best remedy is to apply a cloth or handkerchief, steeped in water, closely pressed upon the inflamed eyelids, and retained as long as possible. Tepid water should be preferred. jigitized by VjOOQ
Xlvi INTRODUCmON.
This list of minor miseries of mountaineering may be closed with one which is oflen felt for some days after an ascent, though but little at the moment. This is the blistering and peeling off of the skin, caused by the direct rays of the sun, or the reflection from the snow, aided by the sharp wind which usually blows at great heights. After a long day's exposure at a great height it often happens that every portion of the outer skin exposed to the wr peels off, leaving the surface raw and uncomfortable for several days. Cold cream or glycerine applied beforehand is a preventive, and the veil acts as a partial protection. The lips are the part that most frequently Buffers from tnis cause, being sometimes split in a painful manner. Collodioi^ although a disagreeable application, is sometimes useful by forming a pellicle over the surface which excludes the air. Some prefer a calico mask to a veil.
Blisters in the soles of the feet should not be cut, but pierced with a needle near the edge, and the contents pressed out. Rubbing the inside of the sock with yellow soap is a preventative, and it is a good plan to rub the feet with tallow and brandy. Some persons are apt to lose the skin of the toes during a long and steep descent. It is easil;^ replaced by good adhesive plaster. A French article, called Taffetas Boggio, is superior to most £nglish court-plaster.
Precautions for Health. — ^Few of these are required ; for the combination of active exercise, pure air, and freedom from care is better for the health than all the prescriptions yet framed by doctors. A few hints may not be useless.
Avoid overworking yourself at first.
When fatigued after an unusually hard day's work, avoid wine, and drink weak tea in the evening. You will sleep soundly and awake refreshed.
Should you still feel the effects of over- fatigue, make the following day one of rest.
Make it an invariable rule to wash extensively with cold water, and change your inner clothing immediately on your arrival after a day's walk.
Dietary. — In some parts of the Alps, in the Bernese Oberland, and about Chamouni, it is quite safe to rely on obtaining food at the places where a traveller puts up for the night. In other districts, where the supplies are poor and scanty, it is necessary to carry supplies, more or less extensive according to the wants of each traveller. The writer has found 1 lb. of rice per day, thoroughly boiled in the excellent milk which is always to be had at the upper chalets, quite sufficient to give two good meals to two travellers. Chocolate may be used for one meal, but in that case bread should also be taken. Hard-boiled eggs contain much nourishment in small space. They are usually boiled too hard ; ^ye minutes is quite enough, but even so they are not very attractive food. The only bread commonly found in cb&lets is a hard black bread, bHked once or twice a year, and not agreeable to un- accustomed palates. On the Italian side of the Alps a substitute for bread is often found in the shape of polenta, made of the maize flour. When the flour is good and thoroughly cooked, this, eaten with fresh butter, is whole- some and palatable food- The brotisse made in the cheese ch&lets in many parts of the Alps is highly recommended by some, but does not suit all stomachs.
The travellers who have explored many of the wilder and least accessible parts of the Alps, where the want of wholesome food is a serious impedi- ment to a prolonged stay, do not seem as yet to have used the^upplies which
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are now to be had in most of the great cities of Europe. It is well known, that excellent meat, well cooked, with or without vegetables, is prepared in hermeticallj-sealed tin cases, and such cases have been largely supplied to exploring expeditions. In some parts of the Alps there may be a little practical difficulty in conveying considerable supplies in this form, but it may be useful to point out that, as nearly all the valleys of the Piedmontese Alps are accessible in a few hours from Turin, there can be no great difficulty in conveying a few tin cases of cooke<l meat to any required point on that side of the main chain. Very good articles are supplied at the establishment of Fratelli Lancia, Piazza del Palazzo di Cittk, Turin. The price of a cas^ containing 1 kilogramme — more than 2 lbs.— of beef or veal, is about 5 francs ; and for half that quantity, 3 francs. Their boeuf k la mode, boeuf aux fines herbes, and boeuf k la financi^re, are highly commended. Those who wish to indulge in luxurious living in the Alps, may order larger cases, containing stuffed capon, or other elaborate dishes.
In taking food for a long day*s excursion, cold roast meat is genei^Uy the best. The guides are disposed to take more than is really wanted, yet, as they consult their own tastes more than that of their employers, it is well to look sharply to the choice that is made. It is a good plan to scoop a hollow in each roll or loaf of bread, and introduce a lump of fresh butter, closing the opening with bread. Butter is always welcome at a great height, and is very useful against thirst. The same remark applies to honey. Chocolate and dried prunes are desirable articles as a reserve in case of need.
Sleeping Bag, — Travellers who shrink from the bad quarters often encountered in the higher valleys of Piedmont and Savoy, and the still worse abominations of Dauphin^, may follow a fashion lately introduced to the Alps from the Pyrenees, where such articles have long been in use, and make themselves independent of lodging by means of a sleeping-bag. Various patterns have been tried, varying in weight from 7 lbs. to more than double as much. The best arrangement seems to be that described by Mr. P. F. Tuckett in the first number of the 'Alpine Journal.' The bag described by him, which weighs about 8 j lbs., ana costs 3/. Ss, 6d,, is made of a thick sort of blanketing, called swan-skin, partly covered with mackintosh; in addition to which is a mackintosh sheet, which may be used to cover the sleeper or his guides. Mr. Tuckett, who passed a night in this bag on the peak of Monte Viso, justly remarks that to sleep at so great a height, and m so exposed a situation, is rather too severe a trial for the guides, only excusable in the case of those who turn their excursions to account for the progress of science. This objection does not exist to a bivouac where wood for firing is attainable.
The dingers of Alpine travelling have been often exaggerated, but they are real, and no rational man will disregard them. The best proof that these dangers are not greater than those attending many other active exercises, such as fox-hunting and yachting, is the fact that, in spite of inexperience and the neglect of the best known precautions, the fatal accidents in the Alps have been so few. The loss of more than thirty lives within a few years, and a much larger number of very narrow escapes, some of them happening to first-rate guides and mountaineers, ought, however, to operate as a salutary warning. The wives and mothers of ^pine travellers, who are disquieted by the reports of accidents, shoud know that scarcely one has yet occurred that
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would not have been prevented by ordinary caution, and adherence to wdl- known rules ; and, instead of endeavouring to withhol<i their husbands and sons from a healthful and invigorating pursuit, should simply urge them to observe the precautions which afford security against all its ordinary dangers.
The following remarks are condensed, with slight alterations, from a paper by the present writer, in the First Series of * Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers.'
The dangers pf Alpine expeditions may be divided into two classes — the real and the imaginary. Where a ridge or slope of rock or ice b such that it could be traversed without difficulty if it lay but a few feet above the level of a garden, the substitution on either side of a precipice some thousands of feet in depth, or of a glacier crevasse, makes no real difference in the work to be done, though it may have a formidable effect on the traveller's imagina- tion. Those who cannot remove this source of danger by accustoming themselves to look unmoved down vertical precipices, and, in cases of real difficulty, to fix their attention exclusively on the ledge or jutting crag to which they must cling with foot or hand, should avoid expeditions where a moment's nervousness may endanger their own lives or those of others.
The real dangers of the high Alps may, under ordinary circumstances, be reduced to three. First, the yielding of the snow-bridges that cover glacier crevasses ; second, the ri>k of slipping upon steep slopes of hard ice ; third, the fall of ice or rocks from above.
From the first and most frequent source of danger absolute security is obtained by a precaution generally known, but often neglected. In the higher region of the glaciers, crevasses, even of considerable width, are often completely bridged over by a covering of snow or neve, so that no indication of their existence is seen on the surface of the glacier. The bridges, especially when formed of fresh snow, often yiehl under the weight of a man's footsteps; in such a case an active man whose attention is on the alert may sometimes extricate himself at once, but it more commonly happens that he falls into the chasm beneath, in which case his chance of life is very uncertain. But if several travellers are tied together with a stout rope, as it is in the highest degree improbable that a majority of them should fall at the same moment into the same crevasse, no appreciable danger from this cause need be incurred. Even two travellers tied together may with a proper attention avoid this risk, but greater security is obtained when they are three or more in number. It is mainly because he cannot be protected from this danger that a man who goes alone over the hiirher regions of the great glaciers incurs a risk th«t must be called unjustifiable.
As it is hard to persuade a landsman that a well-found yacht has more danger to fear in a fog, with a smooth sea around, than when a stiff breeze is blowing, so inexjierienced mountaineers are slow to admit that there is more real chance of accident in traversing some wide expanse of neve, unbroken by a single ruffle, than in crossing a broken glacier with wide crevasses opening on every side. A very moderate amount of practice enables a man to make sure of his footing and to avoid seen dangers, but unseen perils call forth no caution, and though the rope offers complete security, many travellers, and even some good guides, are disposed to neglect it. At the risk of being thought over-cautious, the writer will not cease to urge upon his fellow-travellers in the Alps the enactment, as a fixed rule in mountaineer- ing, that on reaching the limit of the neve the members of a party should all
DANGERS AND PRECAUTIONS. xlix
be roped together. He is perfectly aware that there are many places where the risk is very slight : a practised mountaineer might cross the Th^odule Pass 500 times without accident, but the 501st time he might be lost in a crevasse, as has happened twice on or near the pass since the writer first knew it. With a sufficient inducement, and if it were impossible to find a companion, he would not hesitate to cross that or some other high passes alone ; but if he were in company, he would insist on the use of the rope.
It would seem scarcely necessary to insist that the rope should be sound and strong, if it did not often happen that untrustworthy articles are taken by guides ; and it is not less important to note that it should be fastened round the body of each member of the party, g^iides included, leaving both hands free to use the alpenstock in case of a slip. A neglect of the first precaution led to a fatal accident in 1859, and to another in 1863, and a oreach of the second to the loss of three English travellers, and one of their guides, in 1860, in the descent from the Col du Geant to Courmayeur.
When it is a matter of importance to cross a snow-bridge of doubtful solidity, it is a good plan to let each person in succession crawl across on hands and knees, with the alpenstock in one hand laid fiat upon the snow, so as to distribute the weight over as large a surface as possible. It is need- less to say that, as a matter of course, the whole party should be well roped together.
The ascent and descent of steep ice-sloj^es are amongst the most difiScult operations that commonly fall in the way of the mountaineer, but when ►roperly conducted there should be little or no danger to those concerned, t snouid be explained that the term ice-slope is commonly applied to slopes of neve on which, after a certain amount of exposure, a crust is formed, too hard to yield to the foot, yet very different from compact glacier ice. This icy crust yields easily to the axe, and a couple of well-directed blows sufiice to make a step on which the foot may take secure hold. When we read of ascents in which several hundred steps have been cut, it must usually be understood that these have been made on slopes of frozen neve. Though the operation is rather tedious, and fatiguino; to those engaged in cutting the steps, such ascents seldom involve any risk, for the steps are usually very easily enlarged so as to give good staniling-ground. On slopes exposed to the sun, where a thin layer of snow has lain over rocks, the whole mass is sometimes so saturated by the melting of the surface that when refroeen at night it is converted into a continuous mass of nearly compact solid ice. Such a slope, especially if it be steep, is far more troublesome than those above described ; to cut steps is a much more laborious operation, and these are generally shallower, and give but precarious footing. In such situations some experience and perfect steadiness are indispensable, and it is essential that the rope should be kept tightly stretched.
In spite of every precaution, a traveller may slip on an ice-slope where, if unchecked, a fail would lead to certain destruction. Against this danger the rope is usually an effectual preservative. Cases are said to occur where the footing is so precarious that a party cannot be tied together, as, if one were to slip, he would inevitably drag all his companions along with him to destruc- tion. It is for those concerned to consider whether in such instances the object in view is such as to justify the inevitable peril of the ascent. The writer believes, however, that such cases are extremely rare, and that very
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1 INTRODUCTION.
few slopes have yet been surmounted where two men, with well-stretched rope, could not hold up a third who should slip, especially if the latter be not wanting in steadiness and presence of mind.
There is one description of slope which usually involyes serious risk. That is when a layer of fresh snow lies upon a surface of hard ice, or even well- compacted nev^. For some days there is little adhesion between the upper and the under layer, and if the slope be steep the disturbance caused by the pressure of a foot may easily produce an avalanche capable of carrying away and burying an entire party. Practical experience is needed to determine whether the ascent can be safely attempted. Two fatal accidents that have occurred in the numerous ascents of Mont Blanc should serve as warnings against attempting an ascent when the snow is in this condition.
The dangers arising from masses of ice or rock falling across the track are at the moment beyond the skill of the traveller, but they may, to a great extent, be avoided by a judicious choice of route. Experienced mountaineers learn to recognise the positions where ice detached from a higher level descends over a precipice or steep slope of rock. They either avoid such spots altogether, or are careful to pass them early in the morning, before the sun has loosened the impending masses, or late in the day, after his rays have been withdrawn.
During bad weather the ordinary risks of Alpine travelling are much increased, and serious dangers from other causes may assail the traveller. Masses of rock are detachecl from their previously firm resting-places, and come thundering down across the track. Falling snow obscures the view and efiaces the foot-prints, so that it becomes equally difficult to advance and to retreat. Most formidable of all, the tourmente^ or snow whirlwind — when the wind begins to blow in violent gusts — bewilders the traveller, half blinded by the fine dust-like snow of the higher regions, and benumbs his limbs with its biting breath if he be unable to keep up rapid exercise. A reasonable man will not attempt expeditions in the niffher region of the Alps during bad weather, and will resort to an immediate retreat when unexpectedly attacked by it. Attention to the bearings of the compass and to landmarks will enable travellers to retrace their steps. In attempting to traverse an unknown glacier, it is prudent to gain a height overlooking the projected route, and examine the surface carefully through a glass.
Sad experience has proved that the most serious danger is incurred when inexperienced men take part in difficult expeditions.
Art. X.— Climate and Vegretatloii of llie Alps.
Chalet-life in the Alps.
The narrow limits of this Introduction admit of but a brief reference to a subject which it is difficult to treat without entering into some detail. The climate of the Alps determines the character of the vegetation, and upon this depend the occupations and manner of life of the inhabitants. Writers upon this subject have attached too much importance to the absolute height above the sea-level, as though this had a predominant influence upon the climate; whereas the position of each locality in respect to the ^reftt
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CLIMATE AND VEGETATION OF THE ALPS. li
mountaiii masses, and the local conditions of exposure to the sun and protection from cold winds, or the reverse, are of primary importance in deciding the climate and the vegetation.
Olive Region. — Alone the southern base of the Alps we find a first illustration of the remart above made. The climate of the lower declivities and the mouths of the valleys is markedly warmer than that of the plains of Piedmont and Lombardy. While the winter climate of Milan is colder than that of Edinburgh, the olive ripens its fruit along the skirts of the mountain region, and penetrates to a certain distance towards the interior of the chsun along the lakes and the wider valleys of the Southern Alps. The olive has even become wild on the shores of the Lake of Garda, where the evergreen oak is indigenous, and lemons are grown on a large scale, with partial protection during the winter. The climate of the Borromean islands and some points on the shores of the Lago Maggiore is known to permit the growth of many plants of the warmer temperate zone, while at a distance of a few miles, and close to the shores of the same lake, but in positions exposed to the cold winds from the Alps, plants of the Alpine region grow freely, and no delicate perennials can survive the winter. Accurate information is wanting as to the temperature of this region. The olive has been known to resist a temperature of -9° Cent., or about 16° Fahr., but is generally destroyed by a much less degree of cold. Its successful cultivation may be held to indicate a winter in which frosts are neither lone nor severe, where the mean temperature of winter does not fall below 42** Fahr., and a heat of at least 75° Fahr. during the day is continued through four or five months of the summer and autumn.
Vine Region, — The vine is far more tolerant of cold than the olive, and will produce fruit with a much lower summer temperature ; but to give tolerable wine it demands, at the season of the ripening of the grape, a degree of heat not much below that needed by the oUve. These conditions are satisfied throughout a great part of the Alpine chain in the deeper valleys, and in favourable situations up to a considerable height on their northern slopes. While the olive region is but exceptionally represented on the S. side, the vine not only extends to form a girdle round the base of the chain, but reaches near to the very foot of the greater peaks. The fitness of a particular spot for the production of wine depends far more on the direction of the valley, and of the prevailing winds, than on its height. Hence it happens that in the Canton Valais, the valley of the Arc in Savoy, and some others on the N. side of the dividing range, tolerable wine is made at higher level than in in the valleys of Lombardy, whose direction allows the free passage of the keen northern blasts. It is not uncommon to see vineyards rising in terraces on the N. slope, exposed to the full force of the sun, while on the opposite declivity the pine descends to the level of the valley. The vine in the Alps often resists a winter temperature which would kill it down to the roots in the low country, doubtless because of the protection afforded by the deep winter snow. An early thaw followed by spring frosts oilen injures the crop. A mean summer temperature of 68° Fahr. is considered necessary to produce tolerable wine, but in most of the places where the vine is grown in the Alps the heat rises, at least occar sionally, much beyond the required limit. In fine weather the thermomete- often stands at and above 80° Fahr, in the shade in the valle^.^ Aioiig with
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the vine many species of wild plants, especially annuals, cliaracteristic of the flora of the S. of Europe, show themselves in the valleys of the Alps.
The Mountain Region^ or Region of Deciduous Trees. — Many writers take the growth of corn as the characteristic of the colder temperate zone, corresponding to what has been called the mountain region of the Alps. But so many varieties of all the common species, with widely different requirements, are in cultivation, that it is impossible to identify the growth of cereals in general with any natural division of the surface. A more natural limit is marked by the presence of the principal deciduous trees. Although the oak, beech, and ash do not reach exactly the same height, and are not often present together in the Alps, their upper limit corresponds accurately enough to that transition from a temperate to a colder climate, that is shown by a general change in the wild herbaceous vegetation. The lower limit of this district is, as we have seen, too irregular to admit of definition ; its upper boundary, marked by the gradual disappearance of the above-mentioned trees, is at about 4,000 ft. on the N. side of the Alps, and often rises to 5,500 ft. on the southern slopes. It would be a mistake to suppose that the aspect of this region is mainly characterised by its tree vegetation. The climate appears to be favourable to one or other of the trees which have been named as marking its limits, but the interference of man has done much to eradicate them. It is probable that at a very early date they were extensively destroyed for use in building, and to clear space for meadow and pasture land ; so that, if we except the beech forests of the Austrian Alps, there is scarcely a considerable wood of deciduous trees to be seen anywhere in the chain. In many districts, where population is not too dense, the pine and Scotch fir have taken the place of the oak and beech, mainly because the young plants are not so eagerly attaciced by goats, the great destroyers of tree vegetation. On the S. side of the Alps, the chestnut, although naturally an inhabitant of a warmer region, has in many districts replaced the other deciduous tree, rising to within 1,000 ft. of the same height, being met by the pine, which descends through the inter- mediate space. To this region belong many of the lower ranges on the outskirts of the Alpine chain, and some highland pastoral districts, such as those of the Beauges in Savoy, of the Swiss Canton of Appenzell, and the plateaux of the Venetian Alps between the Adige and the Piave. We find here one form of the peculiar condition of society characteristic of the Alpine highlands, but this is more conveniently described in connection with the next region. The annual mean temperature of this region is not very different from that of the British Islands, but the climatal conditions are as diflerent as possible. Here snow lies for several months together, till it disappears rapidly in a few weeks of warm spring weather, and gives place to a summer considerably warmer than the average of our seasons.
The Subalpine Region^ or Region of Coniferous Trees, — This is the region which mainly determines the manner of life of the population of the Alps. On a rough estimate of the region lying between the summits of the Alps and the plain country that encircles them, we may reckon the whole amount of land m cultivation at about one-quarter of the surface, and of which but little more than a half is under vineyards or corn-fields, and the remainder produces forage and artificial meadow. Kearly another quarter may be set down as utterly barren, consisting of snow-fields, glaciers,
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bare rock, lakes, and the beds of streams, leaving about one-half of tlie entii*e surface which is divided between forest and grass land, either natural meadow or pasture. ITiese proportions show clearly that if any considerable population is to derive a subsistence from the soil, it must b© from feedmg animals, and not from the direct production of human food. Jt is principally from the subalpine region that these animals draw their (support. Grass-land is, indeed, abundant in some parts of the mountain region, but it is chiefly reserved for hay, while the upper pastures of the subalpine and Alpine regions support the herds and flocks during the fine season. Botanically this region is best distinguished by the prevalence of coniferous trees, forming vast forests that, if not kept down by man, and by the tooth of the goat, would cover the slopes of the Alps. The prevalent species are the common and the silver fir. In granitic districts the larch flourishes, and reaches a greater size than any other tree. Less common are the Scotch fir and the arolla or Siberian fir. In the Eastern Alpis the mughuB, dwarf-pine, or Krummholz of the Germans, becomes con- spicuous, forming a distinct zone on the higher mountains, above the level of its congeners. The pine forests play a most important part in the natural economy of the Alps, and their preservation is a matter of vital consequence to the future inhabitants. Through ignorance or recklessness, the destruction of the forests has in some districts been carried much too far ; for the present gain derived from the sale of the timber, and the additional space gained for pasture, may be dearly purchased by future sterility. In the Northern Alps the coniferous trees scarcely attain to a height of 6,000 ft., while on the S. side they often reach 7,000 ft. The larch, the arolla, and the mughus are the species that ascend highest, not uncommonly surpassing the above limit. As it is principally to be seen in this region, we shall here briefiy notice what may be termed the ch&let-life of the Alps, without attempting to describe its various forms in detail.
The entire space occupied by the Alps is mainly composed of deep ▼alleys enclosed between steep and high mountains. The land fit to pro- duce human food being scattered in comparatively small strips and patches in the valleys, while a large part of the mountain country can support during half the year cattle that must be housed and fed in the valleys in the winter, a large part of the population leads a nomad life, changing their habitations several times in the year. According to varying circumstances, such as the extent of land held in tillage, the demand for labour in other occupations, and the traditional usage of the district, the migration may extend to nearly the entire population, or only to a small number strictly necessary for the care of the animals. In the month of May the horned cattle, that have been fed in houses through the winter, are led up to the lower pastures, where tolerably substantial houses are generally found. In the French Alps the general name for all houses used by the people employed in tending cattle is Chalet^ and this has been commonly applied both by French and English writers to all the small temporary habitations in the upper region of the Alps. The German term is Sennhutte. In Italy various names are current in diflerent districts, of which the commonest are Caaera or Casara, and Malga or Malgheria. The lower di&lets, occupied in May and the first half of June, generally stand at about the upper limit of the mountain region, or the lower part ofthe sabalpine
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region. When thej are superior in construction to the mere huts which serve in some districts, they are commonly called maiensasse., or mavens.
Towards the middle, but sometimes not till the end, of June, tne cattle are moved up to the chief pastures, usually towards the upper part of the subalpine region, where they are intended to remain for the ensuing two op three months. Where available pastures are to be had still higher up in the Alpine region, a portion of the cattle are sent there for a time varying from four to ei^ht weeks. In most parts of the Alps the making of cheese is the chief employment of the men who tend and milk the cattle. The quantity produced must be enormous. In Switzerland cheese forms a large part of the dietary of the people, and the export is valued at 350,000/. The quality of the cheese produced in the Eastern Alps is far inferior to that of Switzerland. Butter is made on comparatively a small scale^ and although the people are such proficients in cheese-making, the art of making good butter seems to be little known anywhere in the Alps.
The actual care of the cattle forms but a small part of the labours of the Alpine peasantry. The true limit to the wealth of a commune or a familjr, which is expressed by the number of cows it can keep, does not depend in general upon the amount of pasturage that can be found for them in summer, but on the quantity of food that can be stored up for the winter, and to this task the labour of a large part of the population is directed. Besides artificial meadow in the valleys, the best grass-land in the mountain region is kept to be cut for hay ; and, when it can be spared, a further share of the upper pasture is reserved in the same way. Besides this, men and boys are constantly engaged during the summer in robbing of their natural vegetation the least accessible spots of the mountains, where the cattle cannot arrive. A day*s work is often consumed in collecting a small bundle of grass, gathered from ledges that are reached by perilous climbing, and brought down in a cloth balanced on the head, to add to tiie store of hay for the coming winter.
A stranger in the Alps is often misled by the large number of huts or wooden sheds seen on the slopes of the mountains, and apparently intended for dwellings. Two-thirds, or a larger proportion, of these are hay-sheds, and, as a general rule, one or two such sneds are found close to every chdlet except those in the highest region. This arrangement is a great convenience to travellers who pass the night at a chS.let, as the hay, if not damp, makes a much better bed than can be had in the narrow shed where the herdsmen are constantly engaged.
Tlie Alpine Region, — In defiance of etymology, which would make the term Alpine coextensive with the entire tract available for pasturing cattle, this epithet has been attached by writers of authority to the zone of vegetation extending between the upper limit of trees and the first appear* ance of permanent masses of snow. Shrubs are not wanting throughout this region. The common rhododendron, several small species of Alpine willow, and the common juniper extend up to, the latter even beyond, the level of perpetual snow. It is in this region that the botanist finds fully developed the peculiar vegetation characteristic of the Alps. Many alpine species may, indeed, be found here and there at lower levels, either accidentally transported from their natural home, or finding a permanent refuge in some cool spot sheltered from the sun, and moistened by streamlets descending
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from the snow region; but it is. here that the varied species of saxifra^e^ primrose, pedicularis, anemone, gentian, and other genera that give to the Alpine flora its utmost brilliancy of hue, have their peculiar home. In valleys where pasturacj^e is scarce, the inhabitants are forced to send their cattle up to the very limit of vegetation in order to support them during the summer, while the grass of the subalpine region is in great part turned into hay for winter use. In such cases one or two men remain for several weeks on some isolated slope of Alpine pasture, many hours* walk from the nearest village, until the day arrives when the cattle are led back, perhaps across a glacier, or by some very difficult track, to the lower ch^et which serves as an intermediate station l>etween their summer and winter quarters. In other parts of the Alps, where sheep and goats are more common, the pastures of the higher region are left exclusively to them. The limits of this r^ion in the Northern Alps may be fixed between 6,000 to 8,000 ft* above Sie sea, and at least 1,000 ft. higher on the S. slopes of the Alps and in some parts of the main chain. In Piedmont it is not uncommon to find chilets at 8,500 ft. above the sea-level, and vegetation often extends freely up to 9,500 fl.
^ The Glacial Region, — This comprehends all that portion of the Alps that rises above the limit of perpetual snow. We continue to use that term, which is convenient and cannot well be replaced, but without explanation it is apt to mislead.
Since the mean temperature becomes constantly lower as we ascend above the sea-level, there must be some point at which more snow falls in each year than is melted, or carried on by the wind, or otherwise removed. It is found that, one year with another, this occurs at pretty nearly the same point, and that the same patches or fields of snow are found to cover the same slope of the mountain. But we never find, unless after fresh snow, that the entire surface of a mountain above a certain height is covered with a continuous sheet of snow. The form of the surface causes more snow to rest on some parts than upon others ; the prevalent winds blow away the freshly-fallen snow from the exposed ridges, and cause it to drift in the hollows ; and the sun acts with great force, even on the highest peaks, upon the slopes fully exposed to his rays. The consequence is, that portions of the surface remain bare at heights greatly exceeding the so-called limit of perpetu^ snow ; and that limit is far from retaining a constant elevation throughout the Alps^ or even on opposite sides of the same mountain. The term, nevertheless, has a definite meaning when rightly understood. Leaving out of account masses of snow that casually accumu- late in hollows shaded from the sun, the formation of permanent snow-fields takes place at about the same height when the conditions are similar. Hence it happens that, on viewing an Alpine range from a distance, the larger patches and fields of snow on adjoining mountains, with the same aspect, are seen to maintain a pretty constant level. Vegetation becomes scarce in this region, not, as commonly supposed, because Alpine plants do not here find the necessary conditions for growth, but simply for want of soil. The intense heat of the direct rays of the sun compensates for the cold of the nights, and it is probable that the greater allowance of light also stimulates the processes of vegetation. But all the more level parts are. covered with ice or snow, and the higher we ascend, the less^ the surface
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remains bare, with the exception of projecting masses of rock, which usually undern^o rapid disintejrration from the freezing of whatever water finds its way into the superficial fissures. Many species of flowering plants have never- theless been found at a height of 11,000 ft., and even above 1*2,000 ft. As only a thin covering of snow can rest upon rocks that lie at an angle exceeding 60°, and this is soon removed by the wind or melted by the sun, some portions of rock remain bare even at the greatest height attained by the peaks of the Alps. There is, indeed, reason to believe that the quantity of snow falling on the higher summits is very much less than falls a i'ew thousand feet lower down.
Art. XZ. — Alpine Zoology.*
The zoology of the Alps is replete with many points of interest. Although some of the more remarkable animals have passed away; although the gigantic urus (Bos primigenius)^ which flourished in the forests of Mid- Switzerland during the prehistoric human period, and gave its name to the Canton of Uri, is now ejjtinct ; although the marsh-hog, which survived in the lake-habitations (Sits Scrofa palusiris'), exists no longer, having given place to the modified wild boar and domestic hog, which afford sport and food to the present population, — the mountains at a higher elevation, and far above the snow-line, afford examples of an Alpine fauna, which, as might- a priori have been expected, represents in many important points the fauna of other and still less accessible regions. We purpose briefly to recapitulate the more striking forms, and to comment on their vertical distribution.
The human species in Switzerland does not afford any marked deviation from the ordinary type. The time is long gone by when a zoologist could, as Linnseus did, point to the cretin of the Alps as an example of a monstrous variety of man. The human skulls found in the Pfahlbauten of Switzer- land do not essentially differ from the existing Swiss forms. But at La Tini^re, according to the testimony of M. Morlot, a human skeleton has been discovered, which exhibits the small, round, 'brachy cephalic' type of skull, akin to those of the ' stone period ' of Denmark.
The order Camivora is well represented in Switzerland. The Ijrnx (Felis Lynx) and the wild cat (F, Catus) are to be found at high elevations in the Alps. The former, in the Pyrenees, reaches the vertical height of 11,300 ft; its 'bathymetricar distribution in the Alps is unrecorded. Up to a thousand feet are found the marten {Maries foind)^ the weasel {Putorius vulgaris), and the polecat (Putorius foBfidus). The stoat, or ermine, reaches a higher elevation than any other Alpine carnivore ; it is found at the heipfht of 10,000 ft. Next beneath it, at 9,000 ft., lives the brown bear (jtlrsus Arctos). The means which would enable the zoologist con- fidently to decide whether the bear of the Alps {U. Arctos) and the Pyrenean bear ( Ursus pyrenaictis) are really distinct species, as was alleged many years ago by Frederic Cuvier, are wanting, and it is to be hoped that some traveller will bring over a complete series of skulls, old and young, male and female, of the Pyrenean bear, which will at once solve this question.
The order Ruminantia exhibits many interesting examples. In the whole world, the Alps, the Pyrenees, the Carpathians, and Albanian mountains,
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are the sole spots where the chamois or gems (Rupicapra Tragus) still survives, almost • the solitary representative of the antelopine genus in Europe. The chamois ranges to an elevation of 12,000 ft. It has so long been selected as the representative of the Alpine fauna, that any comment on the most striking and picturesque animal of Switzerland will be super- fluous. The goats of the Alps are represented by the common domestic goat (Hircus JEgagrui) and the ibex, bouquetin, or steinbock (Capra Ibex), The horns of the male bouquetin are strong, thick, subquadrangular, and frequently extend to a length of several feet ; those of the female are much smsdler. The bouquetin is stated to be identical with the ibex of Pliny, and the alyeQ dypioi iv AilS{fy of -2Elian. However this may be, there is little doubt that the bouquetin is rapidly becoming extinct, and that there will soon be very few examples left of a species which was probably once common, as it has left its remains in the Swiss lake-habitations. An allied example of wild goat is found in the Pyrenees, the Pyrenean tur (JEgoceros pyrenaica\ where it is tfie representative of the Al[)ine bouquetin. The breeds of sheep and oxen in Switzerland do not essentially differ from those of Central Europe, the nature of the soil necessarily precluding the exten- sive distribution of sheep in the highlands. The deer of Switzerland are also the South German forms, the red deer (Cervus Elaphus\ the fallow deer (Dama vulgaris), and the roebuck (Capreolus Caprcea), None of them range nearly to so high an elevation in the Alps as the chamois or the ibex, whose firmer feet and coarser diojestive apparatus enable them to ascend to higher vertical zones and to subsist on a less nutritive diet than the solid- homed cervine ruminants. The hog of Switzerland is the wild boar of France and Germany ; the marsh-hog, whose flesh was eaten by the men who built the Pfahlbauten, having long since passed away. The horses and asses of the Alps are most usually seen under the form of the common hybrid, or mule, which alone is sufficiently strong and sure-footed for the difficult tracks.
The Cheiroptera^ or bats, of the Alps are confined chiefly to the mountains of inferior height, and do not ascend above the snow-line. The ordinary' continental bat (Vespertilio murinus), the noctula (F. proterus), the barbastelle (JPlecotas Barbastellus)^ the small horse-shoe bat {Mhitiolophua hipposideros), the great horse-shoe bat {Mhinolophus ferrum equinum), the Vespertilio Nattereri^ and the large-eared bat (Plecotus auritus\ are typical of the Alpine fauna. Other species have been stated to be found, but, according to Tschudi, they are of less frequent occurrence.
The -^pine Insectivora are all of characteristically European type. The hedgehog (Erinacens europceus), the land-shrew (Sorex araneus)y and the water-shrew (Sorex fodiens) are Alpine forms. The white-tailed shrew (Sorex leucodon)f a beautiful species, of which the back is reddish-brown and tlie belly white, is also frequently found. Besides these, the mole (Talpa europaa) is common, and it is even found, in places like the valley of l/rseren, surrounded on every side by rocky ground, where the animal cannot subsist. The reasons which have led to the isolation of some of. these individual forms are unknown, and the presence of the mole in these valleys is inexplicable on the supposition of their migration from other localities during the present topographical conditions of the soil.
The Rodentia of the Alps are not numerous. The marmot (Arctomyf Mat'
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mota) is to be found in its small burrows over the whole of the Alps, where it is persecuted by the hunters, who eat the flesh and use the fat as a remedial agent, which is sold at a high price. Kircher considered the marmot to be descended from the badger and the squirrel, as the armadillo was believed to be the offspring of the hedgehog and the tortoise. Several species of campagnol {Hypud<Bus alpinus^ Wag., H, Nageri, H. ru/escentefuscus) are to be found in the Alps, of which the specific distinction is not yet clearly made out. Wagner describes a species named Hypudaus petrophiltis, from AUgau; an- other, found in the French Alps, is termed Arvicola leucurus. The Lepus »a- riabilisy or alpestris, is also found in the Alps : the same species extends from the 55th parallel in the eastern hemisphere northward to the Arctic circle.
Alpine Bibds. — The number of birds known in the Alps is very great. One hundred and thirty- nine species occur, being one-half of all the birds, residents or passengers, which occur in Central Europe. Even water-birds